Kit Includes: (1) Rear Passenger Side Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly (1) Rear Driver Side Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly
Specification
Side Location
Driver & Passenger Side
Drivetrain
All Wheel Drive
Location
Rear
Item Condition:New
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Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 2006-11 Toyota Camry
How to Replace Rear Bearing and Hub Assembly 2001-2007 Toyota Highlander
Pry off the hub cap with a pry bar
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise and support the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts
Pull the wheel off the hub
2. Removing the Sway Bar Link
Spray rust penetrant on the upper sway bar link nut
Clean the upper sway bar link nut with a wire brush
Hold the upper sway bar link nut with a 6mm hex socket and breaker bar
Loosen the nut with a 17mm wrench
If the nut is stuck, hold the sway bar link ball joint with locking pliers if necessary
Remove the 17mm nut
If the nut remains stuck, cut the sway bar link stud with a hack saw or reciprocating saw
Hold the lower sway bar link ball joint with locking pliers
Remove the 17mm bolt from the lower sway bar link stud
Remove the sway bar link from the vehicle
3. Installing the Sway Bar Link
Hang the sway bar link where it attaches to the strut
Slide the sway bar link stud into sway bar
Start the 18mm nuts onto the sway bar link studs by hand
Hold the sway bar link ball joints with an 18mm wrench
Tighten the nuts with an 18mm socket and ratchet
Torque the 18mm nuts to 55 foot-pounds
4. Installing the Wheel
Slide the wheel onto the hub
Start the lug nuts by hand, with the tapered side facing the wheel
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a star pattern
Line up the hub cap with the valve stem
Push the hub cap onto the wheel
Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a large pry bar or a flat bladed screw driver to remove the wheel cover. Just kind of slide it between the wheel and the plastic and pop it off. These lug nuts are a 21 millimeter socket. I'm going to use that and a breaker bar to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground. Raise this part of the vehicle. We're using a two post lift, but you can use a jack and jack stands. The lug nuts are loose. I’m going to take my socket and finish removing them. I’m just going to hold onto the wheel and take the last lug nut off. It's going to be loose. You don't want to drop it. You can drop the lug nut. That's okay. You just don't want the wheel to fall.
I’m going to disconnect the sway bar link from the strut. Going to spray some rust penetrant on this upper sway bar mount. Use a wire brush to clean off some of the rusty bits. These can be difficult to take off, they get rusty and then the ball joint spins. It does have a hex spot here to put in a six millimeter hex drive. A lot of times that strips almost instantly as soon as you try to break it free ad you end up having to put vice grips behind to grab onto the ball joint, because there's no point here for a wrench. We’re going to do our best to get this one off without having to cut it off.
So this is 17 millimeter nut. Try to break it free first. See, it's turning, it's turning the whole ball joint with it. It's really tight. I’m trying to clean out any rust and dirt that's in this hex drive so I can get the hex drive to sit as far possible inside here, so it doesn't strip. Use some brake parts cleaner, I've sprayed some oil in there and I've been working the hex drive in to try to clean it out. I can see it's going in a little deeper, trying to get this sit as best I can. That's as far as it will go. Spray some more rust penetrant on there. I'm going to try to counter hold this hex drive while I free it with the 17 millimeter boxed wrench. We'll see how this goes. Sometimes you have to brace that against like the strut ad these just have so much – see, it's moving. That's good. It's really tight, though, so I'm just going to put that there. I'm going to spray some more rust penetrant.
These are typically self-locking nuts, so they're a little bit, they're not perfectly round. They're kind of oblong and that can make removing them difficult and also the rust gets gummed up in the threads. So I'm trying to spin this on and off to try to work the rust penetrant into the threads. So as I kind of expected, working these back and forth this hex drive they basically always strip. It's nearly impossible to remove them without these stripping, no matter what you do. So the next step I'm going to get some vice grips and try to hold the ball joint back here and use a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet and continue to remove this nut.
I’m going to try to slide these locking pliers behind the ball joint on the sway bar link. I’ve got a 17 millimeter deep socket on this longer ratchet, going to try to remove these. It feels like it's turning. One thing to mention if you're going to have to remove sway bar links for any reason or think you're going to have to remove them for any reason, you should have new ones on hand. They're almost a one-time use part.
If you're as lucky as us, you'll have to resort to power tools or a hacksaw to cut these sway bar links free. I'll do my best to avoid the strut, I don't want to damage that. I just want to kind of cut on the – going to try to find the narrowest part of the ball joint and the sway bar link. I think I'm on there.
I've actually gone in here. Because these sway bar links get seized on here so easily, I went in and cut the boot away, the rubber boot. So that I can get locking pliers in here to get a better grip on it and it's kind of working by holding it. I'm able to turn the nut out. Worst case if I get loose enough and it just keeps spinning, then I will take a saw and cut it right here. But I'm going to keep trying it right now with the locking pliers. Got it.
Here are our old sway bar links from our vehicle. You can see where I had to cut them. I was able to finally get this one out, but still, these have been destroyed by trying to remove them and you can see they're kind of rounded here. There's no real way to counter hold them to remove the bolts. They are supposed to have a hex drive in here. That strips out pretty quickly when you're trying to remove them.
Here's a brand new sway bar link this is from 1AAuto.com. These actually have a six-point on them so you can put a wrench on here and tighten them down and it's not going to spin on you and when you want to remove them to do other services, you can put your wrench over here and spin this off without destroying the ball joint and the sway bar link. So this should fit great and work great in your vehicle.
Put these up. Get this one up top. You can bend these around. Slide it through. These nuts are locking nuts, so the hole is not perfectly round. It's kind of oblong. So when this starts to tighten it will lock and it won't want to back off.
These nuts are 18 millimeter get this one set up here. The counter hold on the back is 18 millimeters. I'm going to use a deep socket 18 millimeter in the front. Get these snugged down and I'll come back and torque them. Torque for these sway bar links is 55 foot-pounds, and repeat it on the other nut.
Reinstall our wheel. It’s important to note these lug nuts have a taper. Taper meets the wheel and matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them on the flat side like this; that is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel. It helps locate the wheel on the lug nut stud. I'm just using the socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds, going in a cross pattern. Reinstall the hub cap. You’ve got to line up the opening for the valve stem with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Always great service, parts,and the best prices with fast service wish I knew about this place 20 years ago.
Excellent Product
Terry
December 14, 2019
As always, quick, free shipping from 1A. Product seemed to be of the same quality as the OE hub assembly that it replaced. Exact fit and runs like new again.
Excellent Product.
Fazim
January 15, 2020
Anytime I'm looking for Auto I always go to 1aauto they always have what I'm looking for and the best price you can find anywhere..
I'm very satisfied with this product, my car drives like I just took it out of the dealership..
Thank you..
I always recommend this website to all friends...
Wheel bearing
Pete
October 8, 2020
shipping was prompt the parts fit as they should and everything went as expected
Perfect fit
Thomas
October 16, 2020
Both items fit, and work perfectly.
Wheel Bearing
Rosemary
December 29, 2020
Perfect. Works great. Definitely recommend. A1 auto is great to do business with
Rear wheel hub bearings
Frank
January 24, 2021
Items fit perfectly, as described and quality met once again never disappointed with their parts
Rear Wheel Bearings
I
March 1, 2021
Item fit perfectly. I always like to wait until I have some mileage on new parts before reviewing, so I am happy to report they have over 400 miles on them since installed new in early Feb. Have been flawless. Nice to be able to hear the radio again.
Russ
August 19, 2021
Great parts great prices??
Just like oem
Paul
September 19, 2021
Excellent items!!
Satisfied
Rupert
December 3, 2021
On time and in good condition, and good quality thanks
Tommy
January 13, 2022
Parts arrived quickly and fixed the problem.??
Great
John
April 17, 2022
Good quality parts for a great price. These were a breeze to install and are quiet and I can tell they are well made. Definitely recommend 1a auto for quality, affordable parts.
Perfect fit
Jose
June 29, 2022
Perfect fit easy installing
outstanding
Jason
August 22, 2022
From ordering to installation 5 stars..... simple smooth service and quality parts every order. I'll keep checking A1 first for my auto needs. Seriously thank you for having your $#@$ together!!
As excpected.
Allen
March 27, 2023
Fast shipping as always, Bearings fit perfectly. If you have a growl or hum from the rear end, These are a good bet to need replaced.
Chandler
May 7, 2023
This was a perfect fit great replacement on 04 rx330. Nice and quiet now
Highlander rear wheel bearings
Jeff
May 8, 2023
Verdict is still out on longevity of these rear Highlander wheel bearings. It did the trick to get rid of the very loud humming noise. The 32 mm impact socket was expensive but did the trick to get that stubborn nut off. Couple things which were not mentioned - that little half moon when positioned at the top aligns all access holes to get your impact in, ALSO make sure to re-use the rubber plug from your old disk if replacing and that it is aligned with a hole before re-assembly. This is for adjusting the parking brake.
Excellent service overall
Vincent
June 22, 2023
I ordered the wrong hubs at first, but calling and getting the right one was made very simple and easy with the help of customer service plus arriving quickly after reordered very thankful for there service.
A+
Don
September 8, 2023
Just as promised, perfect fit, high quality
Very satisfied
Christopher
November 8, 2023
Installation went well and the car is now quiet. Hope they last a long time.
2012 Toyota Highlander Wheel Bearing & Hub Replacement
Shea
December 3, 2023
Quality Hardware and performs as expected.
2 thumbs up
Charles
January 2, 2024
Worked great on 2004 RX330
Excellent replacement for 2009 Toyota Highlander Hybrid Limited AWD 3.3L
Carnell
February 15, 2024
This the correct and excellent rear hub bearing assembly for a 2009 Toyota Highlander Hybrid Limited AWD 3.3L, made in Japan with first letter J in the VIN.
Exact fit and time saving replacement. Get yours now and keep the wheels rolling smoothly and quietly for good gas mileage on your second generation Toyota Highlander Hybrid Limited AWD.
2012 Highlander AWD rear hub and bearing assemblies.
Alan
March 6, 2024
Just like OEM, good installation. Impact socket fits through hub holes fine. Put half-moon cut to the top to line up all bolts with holes. Brake spring tool fits through holes too for E brake shoe retainers. Local parts stores only have 1 year warranty and are more expensive.
Customer Q&A
Does the ABS sensor come with the assembly?January 7, 2016
Glenn E
10
These do not come with the ABS sensor. From looking at the part I would assume if you have a speed or ABS sensor at the wheel it will not go through the hub. Thank you and have a great day!
January 8, 2016
Derek C
10
No
March 13, 2017
Steven S
10
No
January 15, 2020
Fazim B
10
Nope
October 16, 2020
Thomas C
10
No as for my application they are not part of the bearing assembly itself.
January 24, 2021
Frank H
Do the hubs include new axle nuts?January 27, 2021
I N
10
Our parts include everything pictured. The Hubs do not include the axle nut.
January 27, 2021
Ricale A
Does the bearing have a magnetic strip ring for abs?November 7, 2022
Adam W
10
yes i believe so
November 7, 2022
H B
Do the bearings have to be pressed or is it ready to install?August 24, 2023
Jason S
10
They are ready to install.
August 24, 2023
James K
10
Once you beat the old hub out (hello New England salt), these are pre-assembled and just need to be slid onto axles and bolted up to the knuckle and torqued. Easy peasy.
Worth the extra few dollars (think it was $4 for OEM) to pick up new axle nuts and cut the old ones off so you dont gall the end of the axle trying to straighten out the peen on the old one!
August 24, 2023
Jeffrey N
10
Its ready to install for the rear axle. The bearing and hub are assembled as a single part. That means you are going to replace the hub and bearing.
August 25, 2023
Shaobin D
10
They are ready to install.
August 25, 2023
Anthony H
Customer service
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