Kit Includes: (2) Front Lower Ball Joints (2) Front Lower Control Arms (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Rear Sway Bar Links (2) Front Inner Tie Rods (2) Front Steering Rack & Pinion Bellows
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
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Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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How to Replace Front Lower Ball Joint 2006-11 Honda Civic
How to Replace Sway Bar Link Honda Civic 2006-11
How to Replace Ball Joint 2006-11 Honda Civic
How to Replace Rear Sway Bar Links 2006-11 Honda Civic
How to Replace Inner Tie Rod 2006-11 Honda Civic
How to Replace Outer Tie Rod 2006-11 Honda Civic
How to Replace Rear Sway Bar Links 2006-15 Honda Civic
How to Replace Power Steering Rack Bellow Boots 2006-2011 Honda Civic
How to Replace Control Arm 2005-12 Honda Civic
Created on:
Tools used
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
Paper Towels
Jack Stands
Complete Metric Wrench Set
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
Complete Metric Socket Set
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nuts with a 19mm socket
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Ball Joint
Pull the knuckle toward you
Straighten the cotter pin
Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut
Loosen the nut with a 19mm wrench and dead blow mallet if needed
Remove the ball joint with a ball joint separator, ratchet, and socket
Remove the castle nut
Remove the ball joint from the lower control arm with a pry bar
3. Installing the Ball Joint
Clean the surface of the lower control arm
Insert the ball joint into the knuckle
Hand-tighten the castle nut
Maneuver the ball joint into the control arm
Tighten the bolts to the ball joint with a 17mm socket and ratchet
Torque the three lower nuts to 43 foot-pounds
Tighten the castle nut with a 22mm wrench
Insert the cotter pin
Bend the ends of the cotter pin
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Tighten the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Turn the knuckle out a little bit this way until we see the ball joint. Remove the cotter pin using some needle nose pliers. Pop the little part up and over—that should come right out. Let's spray some rust penetrant on it to help it move. Take your 19mm box wrench.
This is really hard to move, so I'm going to use the dead blow mallet and hit the wrench. Try to break it free. This is on here pretty tight. I tried hitting it with the dead blow, but it didn't work, so we're going to use a cheater bar here. You could just use a piece of pipe. Going to put it over the wrench and give you extra leverage. Sometimes you loosen it too far and then you can't get your box wrench out, so I'm just going to tighten it back up a little bit. And once I can get my box wrench out, now we take the open-ended part and continue to loosen in. That will have to come off, with it loosened, so what we're going to do is thread it back down but not all the way. Then I'll start loosening these bolts under here.
I'll just spray some rust penetrant on the bolt that's right here, that's holding the ball joint in and on the two nuts. I have a 17mm socket and extension and a long breaker bar to get these free. That one's loose. Get this one loose. I've got those loose. I'm going to switch to a ratchet. Now, I'm just taking them out.
I'm going to use a ball joint separator and slide it in here. Get it in place. Use the appropriate sized socket for yours—this one is a 15/16ths. Going to tighten it and it will pop the ball joint down. Break free with a snap. Remove this nut the rest of the way. Now I can get the nut off that it's slid down. This ball joint is loose. It's also loose here in the arm. Going to use some pry bars to just pry down on the arm and pop the ball joint out of the lower control arm. And just, the whole strut is holding the brake, knuckle, and axle assembly. I just reach up here and just pop this down, and that should slide right out of there.
This is our original ball joint that came out of the vehicle. Here’s a brand new one from 1AAuto.com. See the same style ball joint. A new one comes with a new castle nut, and also comes with some new nuts for underneath and a new bolt and a new cotter pin. They're the same style ball joint. This one is marked L for left. This should fit great and work great in your vehicle.
I'm just going to wipe some dirt off the top of the control arm right here. A little bit of the grease off the bottom of the knuckle. Don't have to go crazy, just some of the big chunks, get them out of there. Take the ball joint and get it up in here. Now, I'll take the castle nut and just sort of capture it, just so the ball joint doesn't fall out. Now, I can pull down, and push this out a little bit. I just kind of maneuvered it up into here. I'm just going to give it a little push, get it into place, use the pry bar to kind of readjust it, and just push it home with my hand. I'll get these two nuts caught so it doesn't pop back out. There's a new washer that came with this one.
Reinstall that with the bolt. Thread them in by hand, but don't cross-thread. Now I'm just going to snug these down and come back and torque them afterwards, but in the meantime, get them nice and even.
I want to torque these, starting with this nut here, then the rear nut, then the bolt. Torquing these to 43 foot-pounds. I'll turn this back out so I can see the nut and already getting tight. The placement nut is at 21mm. Use the open-ended part of the wrench to tighten. There is a torque for these, it's very difficult to get a torque wrench in here so I'm just going to tighten it nice and tight because it will have the cotter pin to hold it.
Almost there where the opening is free for the cotter pin. So, right there, I can go straight through with the cotter pin now. Right through here. Grab the cotter pin with my fingers and bend it up now. Sometimes you might need to use pliers. This one's long enough I can do it with my fingers. These go down that way, go down that way. Cotter pin is installed. The ball joint is replaced.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
14mm Wrench
Jack Stands
Tools used
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Torque Wrench
Socket Driver
Pry Bar
Sledge Hammer
Jack Stands
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
Pick
Tools used
15mm Wrench
Hammer
sanding disc
Chisel
Tools used
14mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Jack Stands
Pliers
Bearing Grease
24mm Wrench
Inner Tie Rod Removal Tool
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Wire Ties
Ratchet
Floor Jack
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
21mm wrench
Torque Wrench
24mm Wrench
Hammer
18mm Wrench
20mm Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Straight Cutters
Floor Jack
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
Pliers
Tools used
5mm Hex Wrench
14mm Wrench
15mm Wrench
Socket Extensions
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
Paper Towels
Ratchet
Wire Brush
1. Removing the Rear Sway Bar Links
Spray the nuts and bolts with rust penetrant
Loosen the nuts with a 14mm wrench and counterhold with a 5mm Allen key
Remove the sway bar link
2. Installing the Rear Sway Bar Links
Line the sway bar into the bracket
Hand-tighten the nuts
Tighten the nuts with a 14mm wrench and counterhold with a 5mm Allen key
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
We've got our wheel off here so you can kind of see what we're doing a little better. Whatever is easier for you doing this on the ground in your driveway if you need to, jack it up, and take the wheel off. But the sway bar links are towards the inside of the car here, so we've got it up in the air. You don't really need to be over in this area, but whatever's easier. That's why we've got the wheel off. It just lets more light in here so you can see what we're doing.
I'm going to take some rust penetrant and spray it in on the sway bar link here, both ends of it. Use a rag just to keep it from dripping all over the floor. A little more in here. These are 14 millimeter. And then on the end of these, to counter hold them, the 5 millimeter Allen key. They're usually pretty rusty, you have to work it in there. Get in there nice. Make sure it's seated all the way. Now, I'm going to attempt to break this free. Once that's broken free, I can use this to counter hold it, and I'll just take it off. There's a lot of rusty bits coming out of here, so I'm just going to keep spraying rust penetrant on here. Actually, I was tightening it to clear the threads. Now I'm going to loosen it again. I'm just going to keep doing that over and over again until I get it to come off. Worst case, if you're doing this and this Allen key part strips, you're going to have to come over here with some vice grips and grip down or hold it as tight as you can, and remove this.
Then of course, if you're trying to reuse the sway bar link, you're probably going to damage it if this gets stripped. You'll have to have it replaced with a new one. But we're taking this off to put a new one on anyways. I switched to a ratcheting wrench just to make this a little easier. I'm going in and out because the threads get gummed up with the rusty junk. If these threads are really rusty, you can take a wire brush and try to knock some of the stuff off. Might make it a little easier for these to turn, and eventually, it should come off. Once you get it past the locking bit of the nut, it'll start to get a lot easier. That's one end. But instead of taking it out, I'm going to leave it in there and just throw the nut on real loosely. Whoop. If I can get over the threads, just throw it on real loosely. Just so that when I'm working on this one, it's not flopping around everywhere. Take a brush and knock off any big pieces of rust.
Additionally, that would be a sign of a loose sway bar link is that sort of rattling. I'm going to use a deep socket and longer ratchet. I'm going to try to just break this free before I start turning on it. All right, so now I can see it's just turning in the little ball joint, but it is broken free from here. Put on some more rust penetrant, and put a ratcheting wrench on here. And the five millimeter Allen to car hold. And this will be the same as the other one, just got to keep working at it. All right. And sometimes you almost get it off just the way it's supposed to go with the Allen key and it strips right here at the end. Not quite there. So now I have to get some locking pliers on here and finished taking it off the rest of the way.
Since I don't need the opening in the wrench, I'm going to switch to a ratchet with a 14 millimeter socket and finish this off. Snap the pliers off of here, get this nut off. There's our sway bar link.
Here's the original sway bar link. Brand new one from 1aauto.com. It's the same style, these line up nicely, comes with new nuts. These are locking nuts. See how they're oblong. And also you can put in the hex key in here. Those should fit great and work great for us.
Take the nuts off of these. They're only going to line up one way. Get the nuts started. Probably be able to spin them down until they get to the oblong part that locks. These are actually 15's. I'm using a ratcheting wrench and just watching to see if they're tightening down without spinning in the ball joint part, which it looks like it is. So, now it's starting to spin. So that's as tight as I can go with that one for now.
Let's start with one now. Same way. I actually have this one seated down and it feels tight. And this one needs to be tightened some more. So what I will do is put a wrench on here, a hex key in here and just snug this down. Get it nice and tight. Do the same for this one. That's already nice and tight. Get this off. That sway bar link is replaced.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
24mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Safety Glasses
Pick
Side Cutters
Locking Pliers
Gloves
Wheel Chocks
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
Tools used
14mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Pry Bar
Pliers
SUS02691
In Stock
Product Reviews
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4.50/ 5.012
12 reviews
5 Stars
4 Stars
3 Stars
2 Stars
1 Star
10
0
1
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1
Right parts
Ed
June 20, 2019
Ordered the front end kit. All the parts fit the car perfectly and the price was so reasonable!
Shahan
February 17, 2020
Every thing is Awesome After install this parts my car is running smooth Parts Quality is Awesome and All parts deliverd on time
Quality Parts
Alan
April 7, 2021
Very pleased with the parts, just as good as more expensive ones. Only thing I didn't like was the sway bar links, you have to have a very flat 14 mm wrench for the back when tightening because once you get the nut mostly tight its impossible to use a standard size wrench on back to keep from spinning. I had to grind an old wrench down flat to get it to work.
Alan
2006 Civic Coupe EX
Jacob
March 31, 2022
Good quality parts. Fit well and have performed like OEM.
Good
Jatin
July 22, 2022
Parts very good but bad packaging and slow shipping
Seems to be good quality and was nicely packaged. Pretty good kit.
Travis
October 24, 2022
Overall very good product. Biggest down was no instructions for assembly of rear suspension or discription of adjustments on front coilovers. Would have been nice for someone's first time installing such a kit. That was the biggest downfall I experienced.
Miguel
March 11, 2023
Best part's
Nestor
June 15, 2023
Ride feels like new
David
June 19, 2023
It fitting good
2007 honda civic coupe
James
October 1, 2023
Was everything i needed to rebuild my 2007 honda civic coupe suspension .no complaints.
2007 honda civic build
Alex
November 1, 2023
I didnt realize how bad my suspension was until i started installing everything back very solid and sturdy unlike the wobbly old ball joints and tie rods holding onto dear life waiting for someone to save them, luckily everything fit as it should thank goodness for 1aauto and the fast shipping, i was able to get everything done before the storm came and now my car is in tip top shape
Don't Buy!
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Michelle
February 25, 2024
Horrible manufactured parts. Bought them in June but didn't put them on until about August. Now here we are in Feb and the out tie rod ends and ball joints on bot driver side and passenger side are flatter than paper and cracking almost split open! Should have listened to the reviews not to buy them. Won't be purchasing these again or anything from A1 AUTO.??
Customer Q&A
Does this fit the coupe or sedan?August 7, 2022
Jesse A
10
This is listed to fit the following:
2006-2011 Honda Civic DX
2006-2011 Honda Civic EX
2006-2011 Honda Civic GX
2006-2011 Honda Civic LX
2009-2011 Honda Civic EX-L
2009-2011 Honda Civic LX-S
August 8, 2022
Kelly S
What about 06 civic si coupe?January 30, 2023
Elio T
10
We do not carry these suspension kits for the SI at this time.
January 31, 2023
Andra M
Would this fit a 08 civic si sedan?February 7, 2023
Jeffery L
10
This part will not fit your vehicle, but we may have a part that is listed to fit.
Please enter your vehicle's year make and model in the search bar at the top of the page. This will display parts guaranteed to fit your vehicle. Just be sure to verify all of the information shown in the Vehicle Fit tab before ordering.
February 7, 2023
Jean O
Customer service
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
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