Replaces
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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
Frequently bought together
Part Details
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Tools used
Once you have your vehicle safely raised and supported, you're going to remove all five lug nuts using a 21 millimeter. Carefully remove the wheel, set it aside. The next thing we're gonna do is remove the sway bar link from right here. If you use an 18-millimeter wrench, you can come right inside the backside there and grab onto that, and then an 18-millimeter socket and remove these two. Pull this pull pin off. There we are, that gives us plenty of slack there. Now we're going to use a 10-millimeter right here and remove this one. Let's get the 10-millimeter one here. The next thing we're going to remove is the bolt that holds the knuckle to the strut. Use an 18-millimeter, and then be careful because this will come up and swing around. There we are, and we'll leave that right there. Do the lower one. Same thing, watch out for that thing that comes around. This one looks like it had rotted off so I'm going to grab that with some pliers. All right. Both those bolts are the same. Now I'm going to use a pry bar, come right in between the knuckle and the shock strut. Just kind of pry apart, but be careful because you have your brake line still attached. There we are. Now you just want to hang this so it doesn't put any pressure on your ABS or your brake hose. Use a 13-millimeter, remove these four nuts. Leave that one on there a couple threads. Set those aside. Now I'm going to hold up the shock, remove this nut, take it right out. Awesome.
Let's get ready for install. Okay, getting close. There we go. That was easy. TRQ strut comes with brand new locking nuts so I'm gonna use those. If for some reason you weren't, I would definitely use some threadlocker. Let's bottom these out. Let's torque these to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these to 26 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get this off of here, line this back up. We've got our two bolts. I like to use a little bit of threadlocker on these. And our nuts, that on there. This one's a little bit harder to get to. It's gonna push that bolt out a little bit so I can get the nut on there. Let's bottom these out. Let's torque these bolts to 148 foot-pounds. Torqued.
Let's get the mounting bracket for the brake hose back on here. Make sure you tighten that up. Now clip in the little clip for your ABS wire. Perfect. Okay, now let's bottom these out. Use your 18-millimeter right there, 18-millimeter on this side as well, snug them up. Let's torque these to 85 foot-pounds. Get the wheel back up on here. Start on all your lug nuts and then bottom them out. Now we're gonna bring this down and torque it to manufacturer specification. Now with the vehicle's wheel touching the ground but most of the weight of the vehicle off of it, we're going to torque these in a star pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
Okay, friends. So what I did is I raised the vehicle. I put jack stands underneath the differential tube, and then I lowered the vehicle back down so it's pretty much taking the weight off of the shock. I have the wheel off because it makes it easier for me to work. You don't necessarily have to remove it. I'm gonna remove this bolt right here using a 15-millimeter. After that, I'm gonna go up top.
I'm just gonna take that bolt. Just put it in there just a teeny bit just to hold that shock so it doesn't fall. So next we're going to go inside the trunk. You can pull down this little felt panel here, then you see the upper portion of that shock. Remove this 15-millimeter as well.
Now I'm gonna grab the shock, and remove that bolt, and then carefully slide this out. There it is.
So once you cut the ribbon off of your shock, it's important to use this cap and then press straight down on this. What this is gonna do is it's gonna charge the shock. The gases inside need to mix. Every time you do this, this is going to come up a little faster, and it's gonna get a little bit harder to push down. You need to do this three to five times.
So the next thing we're gonna do is take this grommet right here. A little bit of lube. I'm just gonna go right along this like that. I'll show you why. We're gonna come under here and just help this up into the body of the vehicle just like that.
So next, you're gonna take your shock. I'm gonna put this little metal piece so it's facing up. You've got a cup there. Come in here just like this. If you wanted to, you could put a little bit of lube on that shock as well. I'm going to do it. All right. Grab that shock bolt, start putting it through.
You've got the nut. You've got the little flippy do here, that's gonna line up with right there. Start this in. Let's go up top. I've got these three pieces left so I'm gonna take this little rubber grommet right on top just like that. My cup is going to face down. Then, of course, you've got your locking nut with the neoprene. The neoprene faces up and away from the shock. Awesome.
So now I'm just gonna snug this up a little bit. All right. Now I'm gonna bottom-up the bottom side and then we'll torque these to manufacturer specifications. So to torque the upper mounting nut up there, you're going to need to hold this because it's going to want to spin. Just use some nice locking pliers. Carefully go up along the top here and lock them in. Now we're gonna torque this nut to 30 foot-pounds. There it is right there.
Now we're gonna bottom out this bolt. Torque this to 85 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get this back up in here. Lift up on this liner, just go all the way around. Something nice like that. Perfect. Now, with the wheels, make sure you torque your lug nuts in a crisscross manner to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.
