Replaces
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.
1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
Frequently bought together
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Okay, friends. It's time to do our front sway bar link. One thing that I'd wanna note is you don't necessarily have to remove the wheel to do this. If you're working on the ground, of course, you'd wanna use a jack stand, safely get underneath your vehicle, and right behind the wheel is where you'll find your sway bar link. If you need to remove your wheel for any reason to do this job, you're gonna torque the wheel at the end to 150 foot-pounds. With that said, let's get started.
I like to use a little bit of penetrant on any of the areas I'm going to be removing. We're gonna remove that top nut, and then down along the bottom of the control arm, there's another nut. Spray those down, let them sit. Next, I'm going to use a 15-millimeter wrench and I'm gonna come along this area of the sway bar link. It should have a hexagon there for us to grab on to. Use a 15-millimeter socket and remove that nut. All right, so our nut broke off which is fine because we're replacing this anyway. So now to get the lower nut off of there, there's something you have to pay attention to. As you try to spin it, and it finally breaks free, it's actually gonna spin the joint right up here. What I like to do is, you can either use a razor blade or a nice pair of cutters and get this boot right out of there.
The next thing we'll do is grab right onto it with some locking pliers, and then we'll come down here and we'll get the nut off of there. I'm just gonna cut this and try to get it out of my way. There might be grease in there, so you're probably gonna want a rag. And I always like hand and eye protection at all times. There we are. Got our nut off of there. Now that we have the nut off, you can see that this moves around. The problem is it's not gonna come out of here. We need to be able to get this bar up. So, it's always a great idea to remove and replace your sway bar links as a pair. If for some reason you're not doing them as a pair, you still need to go over to the other side of the vehicle and take off the upper nut. That way there we can move this bar up and down.
Now that I have removed the nut from the other side sway bar link, I can grab my bar and I should be able to move it out of the way just enough to get the sway bar link up. And then we'll see if we can pull this up and out of here. And there it is, friends. All right, friends. Now it's gonna be time to install our brand new front sway bar link. One thing that I like to note is, right down along the bottom area, it has this nice nutted area. That's gonna be great because you're gonna be able to grab onto that with a wrench and snug up the nut. Whereas the old or original sway bar link didn't have this and we had to use locking pliers. With that said, I'm gonna go ahead and get the nut off of there. I'll take the nut off at the top as well. And then I'm also gonna take off the washer, and just the top bushing. It's two separate pieces. I'm gonna leave the lower washing and the lower bushing.
Take this and put it right through the control arm hole. And then, of course, we're gonna take the rest of our sway bar link and put it up in there. Lift up that bar, put it right through there. Now, before we go ahead and put this all back together along the top, it's important to remember if you're doing both side sway bar links, you wanna make sure you get the other side in to this point as well. Because you need to still be able to move this bar around. Of course, once you've done the other side...or maybe you haven't if you're only doing one. Next, we're gonna go ahead and put our stuff together here.
If you look at the bushing, you're gonna see it has a little piton area that comes down. That's gonna be the area that faces towards the bar itself. And then of course it has the rounded edge that fits right inside that washer. We'll put this right up on here. Then we're gonna take our nut. You wanna put the area that has the lock, or the blue neoprene in there, facing up towards the top. Start that on there. Do the same to the other side if you're at this point. And now, of course, we'll snug it up. Let's torque this to 35 foot-pounds. There we are. Do the lower one...to 66 foot-pounds.
Tools used
Okay friends. To get started on this job, the first thing that we need to talk about is safety. You want hand protection and eye protection at all times. With that said, safely raise and support your vehicle. So you have your front wheel off the ground. We're going to remove this center cover and then we're going to remove the lug nuts as well.
Get your wheel off of here. The next thing we need to do is loosen this jam nut right here. We're just going to go a little bit so that way there we'll be able to get this tie rod off. There we are. We need to get this cotter pin off of the outer tie rod end now, then we'll need to get the nut off of there. Use your 21 millimeter socket and remove your knot. I just put this back on there just a couple threads because now we're going to use our hammer and we're going to hit right along here on the knuckle.
Let's get this off of there, pull this down. Next, we're going to unscrew our outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod end. Once you get this off of here, just make sure you compare it completely to your new part. Next, I always like to use a little bit of copper Never-Seez along the threaded area. Now it's going to be time to install our brand new tie rod end. Go ahead and screw it right onto this inner tie rod end until it bottoms out with the jam nut. Let's get our tie rod end back in here. Now it's going to be time to get the nut on here. Just make sure if you've got a locking end, that's facing up.
Bottom it out. Torque this to 111 foot pounds. Torqued. Let's get this jam nut snugged back up. There we are. Now it's time to get our wheel back up on here. Start on all of our lug nuts, bottom them out, and then we're going to torque them to 150 foot pounds. Next you need to get your vehicle so the tire is just barely on the ground so it can't spin. We're going to torque the lug nuts like I said to 150 foot pounds in a star pattern. Once you've torqued it, make sure you put back on your center cover of course.
Tools used
Tools used
Okay friends, to get started on this job, the first thing that we need to talk about is safety. You want hand protection and eye protection at all times. With that said, safely raise and support your vehicle so you have your front wheel off the ground. We're gonna remove this center cover and then we're gonna remove the lug nuts as well.
Get your wheel off of here. We need to get this cotter pin off of the outer tie rod end now, and we'll need to get the nut off of there. Use your 21-millimeter socket and remove your nut. I just put this back on there, just a couple threads because now we're gonna use our hammer, and we're gonna hit right along here on the knuckle, being careful not to damage the tie rod. Let's get this off of there. Pull this down.
Next, we need to get the mounting nuts off of the top of the strut area here. There's gonna be three of them. There's gonna be two right here where you can see, and the other one is gonna be located further in. You definitely don't wanna touch this center nut in any way. So I'm just gonna use my 15-millimeter wrench, because it's the easiest thing to get into this space. Put it right up on here, and then, of course, a nice rubber mallet, because I don't want to damage my tool.
I'll get this nice and loose. Do the same to the other two, and then we'll remove the nuts fully. As you can see the inward nut is much easier to get from inside the engine compartment. Let's get this one right off of here. We're gonna leave one of the nuts on here just a few good threads. That way there, there's no chance that this strut can fall out. Moving down the strut, if you were to look, you're gonna see a big old bolt with a nut. Using your 30-millimeter socket, you're going to go right here and remove this nut. And I'm gonna hold the bolt head with some pliers. Now, I'm just gonna drive this bolt out of here.
Next, we're gonna use a nice long pry bar, and we're gonna come right under here. Go ahead and pry and you should see it want to separate. We'll pull it away from the control arm. You can see our safety nut did its job. Remove that nut, and remove your strut unit. The next step is to take off our upper ball joint nut. Take that nut, and just put it back on there a few good threads.
Next, we're gonna use a hammer and hit directly on the knuckle right here. That's gonna shake this free, and you're gonna notice that these two are gonna separate. Pull down on this. Remove the nut. Now as this comes up, your knuckle is gonna wanna fall away. Obviously, you don't want to let it continue to fall, because you could put a tug on your ABS wire or even your brake hose. If you have something as simple as a coat hanger or maybe even one of these bungee cords, it's gonna come in handy.
Next, what we need to do is remove the bolt that comes through from the inside of the strut tower to the outside. I'm gonna hold this nut with a 21-millimeter wrench, and then I'm gonna remove the bolt side. Do the same to the other one real quick, right off of there. Grab onto that upper control arm, and get it right out of here. Now you wanna inspect your bolts. You wanna make sure they're in great condition. If they're rusted, or rotted, or they seem like they're weak in any way, of course, you're gonna wanna replace them. Also, take a peek at your threaded area. If it looks like it's rotted and the bolts or the nut isn't gonna be able to hold on like it should, obviously, try to clean it up, and replace them if need be. These actually look pretty good. I can clean them up a little bit. But, nevertheless, what I'm also gonna do is I'm gonna add a little bit of copper Never-Seez along this area where the bolts are gonna be going through the upper control arm bushings.
Okay, now it's gonna be time to get our upper control arm in here. Let's go ahead and slide it right in. And we remember the bolts go from the inside, and they're gonna go facing out. So go ahead and line up the bolt holes, slide the bolts through, and then, of course, we'll start the nuts, we'll snug them up, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer's specifications.
Now that we have the bolts in there, it's gonna be time to get the nuts on. Something that I want to mention real quick is your nuts are supposed to have a neoprene layer inside there that works as a lock. If you're gonna be reusing your nuts for any reason, maybe you haven't gotten new ones, that's okay. I would just use a tiny bit of thread locker, but we'll call it your prerogative. Let's go ahead and start these.
The next thing we need to do before we go ahead and snug these up is we need to make sure the control arm's sitting so it's pretty much parallel to the ground. So this flat area right here is gonna be parallel. I like to use a nice pry bar. I'll come through this slot right here, and just get it as close as possible. Obviously, if it's a little too high or it's a little too low, it isn't gonna be too big of a deal. But if you tighten it while it's hanging like this, and I try to stretch this, it's gonna cause an issue with the bushings, and eventually wear them out very quickly over time. Let's go ahead and bottom this out. Same to the rearward bolt.
All right, so now we're gonna go ahead and torque these down to 114 foot-pounds. I'd like to note that usually when I'm using a torque wrench, I try to torque the nut side. I'll hold the bolt side and I'll torque the nut side. As you can tell, there isn't very much space here so I'm gonna go the opposite. I'm gonna torque this side. Let's get this untied. And I'm gonna start our upper ball joint nut on here. Just pull this down. Start the nut on there. If you're having a hard time pulling this down, you could just put your pry bar up across here, and then, of course, go into the slot we used earlier. Let's snug this up. Now let's torque this to 85 foot-pounds.
Now it's gonna be time to get the strut up in here. If you were to look, you can see the area that the strut holes are gonna be. So just line that up. Put this right up in here. There we are. Now I'm just gonna start on all three of those nuts real quick. I like to use a little thread locker on those. If it looks like this needs to be twisted a little bit, you can use a long screwdriver or pry bar. Just come right through the bolt hole, and then you can twist it as needed. Once you think it looks pretty good, I'm just gonna take my pry bar, and then I'm gonna push, and lift at the same time. Okay? This is working its way right in there nicely.
Now we need to grab our bolts because we want to have it ready so once we have this lined up, we can go ahead and put it right through. Before we go too much further, we need to make sure we inspect our bolt, clean it, and, of course, make sure the threads are nice and clean and safe. Once we've done that, we'll add a little bit of thread locker, and we'll continue. So I got the bolt cleaned up. You'll notice I put on my thread locker like I said I would, and I also put a little bit of copper Never-Seez on the shanked area here. I wanted to make sure I didn't get any Never-Seez on the threaded area though. With that said, let's get this lined up, and get the bolt in. There we are. Let's get the nut on there. Now we're gonna go ahead and bottom this out, and then we'll torque it down.
So next, we're gonna have to torque this nut to 351 foot-pounds, which just to let you know, is a lot. Most torque wrenches don't necessarily go up that high. A lot of them only go up to 250. Torque it as high as you can. Just keep in mind the torque should be 351. That's torqued. Let's get our tie rod end back in here. Now it's gonna be time to get the nut on here. Just make sure if you've got a locking end, that's facing up. Bottom it out. Torque this to 111 foot-pounds. Torqued. Now, we're just gonna bottom out these strut nuts.
So now we're just gonna torque down these nuts. Something to think about though is before you torque them, you need to either have your wheel on and the wheel on the ground with the weight of the vehicle, or you can use a jack stand, but you need to have the weight of the vehicle forcing down on the strut. Now it's time to get our wheel back up on here. Start on all of our lug nuts, bottom them out, and then we're gonna torque them to 150 foot-pounds.
Next you need to get your vehicle so the tire is just barely on the ground so it can't spin. We're gonna torque the lug nuts, like I said, to 150 foot-pounds in a star pattern. Once you've torqued it, make sure you put back on your center cover, of course.
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
