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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brake pads on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo. We show you on the passenger's side but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this include new brake pads from 1AAuto.com, a 19mm socket and ratchet, a 14mm wrench, a flat blade screw driver, a hammer, a large C-clamp, a wire brush, brake grease, jack and jack stands, and a torque wrench.
Loosen up the lug nuts, pull your hub cap off, and then remove the lug nuts. You want to loosen these while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way if you don't have air-powered tools. Now, just pull the wheel off.
Next, remove the top caliper bolt and loosen the bottom one. I use a 14mm wrench and hook it on with another wrench to get some extra leverage. Again, remove the top one and loosen the bottom one. Once you remove the top one, then you can pull the caliper back. Once you pull back the caliper, just pry out the brake pads with a flat blade screw driver. Then pry out these brake pad slides.
On the top are the new pads from 1A Auto; on the bottom are the old ones. You can see that the new ones from 1A Auto are exactly the same. Pull back your caliper and then use an old brake pad and push in that piston. Just twist the large C-clamp. It will push the brake pad against the piston and push the piston in. Clean off your brake pad slides using a wire brush, and then push them back into place. Then apply brake grease to the tabs on either end of your brake pads. Slide the brake pads into place and then push your caliper back up into place over the brake pads. Then replace those two 14mm bolts and tighten them up.
Replace your wheel, replace the lug nuts, and then tighten them preliminary. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Then torque each of these to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your hub cap and tighten up these lug nut caps. Whenever you do any work on the brakes, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms out and try a stopping test from five miles per hour, then ten miles.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on a 2006 Chevy Impala. It's the same from the left side to the right side as well as model years 2006 through 2012. In order to replace your brakes you'll need new front brakes from 1A Auto; 19, 15, and 13mm sockets and socket wrench; a C-clamp or water pump pliers; a pry bar; and torque wrench.
By hand, use the 19mm socket to loosen the five lug nut covers. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, then you'll want to loosen the lug nuts while the car is still on the ground, then raise and secure the vehicle, and remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire.
Turn the wheel assembly outward so that you can get back behind the caliper. To check the wear on the brakes, look through the inspection window on the caliper. You see the outside and the inside pad. There's plenty of meat on those. Then check your rotor. Run your finger across it, feel for anything unusual and check for excessive rust.
There are two 13mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. You can see them there. Use a 13mm socket and ratchet. You could also even use a wrench to remove those. I'm using a long flat head screwdriver to pry between the caliper and the rotor. I'm actually in the rotor there in one of the vents pushing and pulling against it to push back in the two pistons that push the brake pad out so, that I've got some room to pull the caliper off and set it on top of the strut assembly out of the way. Go ahead and pull out your brake pads. Both the inner and the outer brake pads come out just by sliding them off the caliper guide. Once you've done that there are two steel slide springs. Take those off of the caliper guide. Set them aside. We're going to reuse those.
Locate the two 15mm bolts that hold the caliper guide to the spindle assembly and remove those. I'll go ahead and fast forward as I take those out. Go ahead and pull the caliper bracket off and your brake rotor.
Here's a shot of the new brake rotor and brake pads from 1A Auto. I'm going to clean the surface of the brake rotor to get any shipping oil to keep it from rusting while it's being shipped or staying in a box off with some brake clean and a rag. Do both sides. Then, moving on to the brake pads I'm going to apply some brake grease to the ends where they sit in the caliper slides. Now those steel caliper guide slides, I'm going to go ahead and clean those up with a wire brush.
I'm putting the new rotor onto the hub assembly. I'm going to install a lug nut temporarily just to keep the rotor from falling off. Install the caliper guide and the two15mm bolts that hold it on. I'll go ahead and fast forward as I do that. I'm going to go ahead and torque those to 75 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the cleaned up steel brake pad slides into the caliper bracket. Reinstall your brake pads putting the tabs in their slides and pushing them against the rotor. I'm using a C-clamp, as you can see here, and the old brake pad in between it, I'm tightening up on that c-clamp, to re-set the pistons. Once that's all set, remove it and you'll be able to put your caliper back on to the caliper guides. Reinstall the two bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. I'll go ahead and fast forward as I tighten those up. I'm torquing those to 30 foot-pounds.
I'm going to remove that lug nut that I had on there just to hold the rotor in place and then I'm going to go and reinstall the wheel and those five lug nuts. Torque the five lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds. Line up the notch in your hub cap to the valve stem on your tire and wheel and then reinstall your hub cap and tighten down the five lug nut covers with your 19mm socket by hand.
Last, but not least, always make sure you get in and pump the brake pedal a bunch of times. Make sure you get a nice firm pedal before you road test the vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
