Chevrolet GMC Front 12 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA69983

One of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle, so the wheel is off the ground. Let's remove our 22-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.

Now that the wheel's off of here, we have a clear view of the sway bar link. What you're going to notice is, up along the top, it has a strange-looking nut. It's very thin. It's going to be hard to grab onto. I'm going to use a pair of locking pliers to try to grab onto it. Using my 15-millimeter socket, I'm going to come down from the bottom here. Now I'm going to use my 14-millimeter socket down along the bottom here, see if we can get this to come apart. Looks like it's starting to turn.

Okay. So, for us, the outer sheath on this broke free from the bolt itself that's supposed to be running through the center, so I'm just going to go ahead and spray this down with some penetrant, let that soak down and through there. Sometimes, what happens is, is this outer portion will actually freeze or get stuck onto the bolt. If that's the case, what you would either want to do is grab onto the outer portion with some locking pliers, and then try to spin out that bolt. If that doesn't work, you might have to just cut the bolt itself. There's the bolt. Let's get all this out of here. Awesome.

So, now, assuming you're doing the sway bar links as a pair, now is the best time to go ahead and start doing the other side as well. Okay. Once you have both sides out, you should be able to move the bar around a little bit at this point. We're going to grab our new sway bar links. We take off the nut, take off the washer and the bushing, the washer and the bushing, and then, of course, the sheath, washer and bushing again, and we're going to leave it just like this.

Now, as we come up, okay, coming up from under the control arm, we still have the bolt with the washer and the bushing. Now we're going to take our bushing with our washer, put that facing down and towards the control arm. Grab your spacer, put that on there. We're going to push this up a little bit further. Now you're going to go washer, facing up, bushing. Get it underneath that sway bar. Bring it up. Bushing again.

If you were to look at these bushings, you can tell that they have like a rounded area, and then they have this area right here with a little like a piton. The piton is going to be going either towards the control arm or towards the sway bar. Set that on there, this one right here, and then, of course, our locking nut. I like to use a little thread locker on these.

I'm just going to use my 14-millimeter wrench, and of course, my ratchet underneath, and I'm going to start snugging it up. As I snug it, I want to be watching these bushings. What I want to see is the bushing touching up against the bar, on both sides of course. And, of course, down by the control arm there, we want those bushings to be touching up against it as well. We don't necessarily want to continue tightening, though, until the point where they seem like they're getting squished down and even pancaking out. So, let's just snug them up so they're all touching at least, and then we'll continue on.

Okay. So, this looks great. As you can tell, all of my bushings are touching exactly where they need to be touching. And you're also going to notice that I didn't continue tightening until they flattened out, like I had said before. This looks pretty great, so I'm just going to take a quick measurement of it. It looks like it's approximately the width of my thumb, personally, so I'm going to make sure that I go approximately the same on the other side of the vehicle.

Okay. Now it's going to be time to get the wheel up on here. Slide it on. Now we'll get the lug nuts on here, we'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued.

Safely raise and support your vehicle on the frame so your suspension can hang. Now that we've safely raised the vehicle, let's remove this by using a small pry bar right in this little slot. Now you can see your 22-millimeter lug nuts, remove those. And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side. It's a great idea to spray down the area. We're going to let that sit. Obviously, if your tie rod ends look like this around the adjustment area, you're going to want to do the whole thing. If for some reason you aren't, you're going to remove these two bolts and then you'll turn this out and that will break this free.

So now that I know that I am replacing the assembly as a whole, I'm going to turn the wheel all the way to the left. That's going to give me the most area to get to that inner tie rod and stud. To start, I'm going to use my 18-millimeter half-inch drive, come right up here on the outer tie rod end nut, if you need to give it a couple of bonks, make sure you get it on there. Let's loosen this up. I'm just going to take that nut and put it back on there, just a few threads to keep myself safe.

So now we're going to break the outer tie rod end free from the knuckle right here, you can use a large hammer. You could also use a pickle fork with a hammer. If you're going to go with the hammer method, just go right here on the knuckle, it should want to break free. Make sure you have the nut on there and your safety glasses. All right, that broke free, awesome. Let's remove that inner tie right end nut. For this part right here, we're going to use one of these pickle forks. Come right in through in between the inner tie rod end and this right here, going to hammer it in. Start that on just a couple threads here. Okay, that's separated. Let's start the removal process here. Now we can move along to the next step.

So one of the first things we need to do when we get to the bench is, of course, we'll put a little bit of copper Never-Seez on our threaded area, you can go right on the tie rod ends, and maybe inside the sleeve if you wanted to. Once you have done that and you have those prepped, we're going to take a measuring tape and we're going to measure from one end of this all the way to the other end. Take a quick measurement here, and take note, looks like for me it is 16 and seven-eighths. So, what I am going to do now is I'm going to get this started onto both these tie rod ends at the same time, that is called timing the tie rod ends. We'll screw it in, and then we'll keep measuring until we get to 16 and seven-eighths, which is my measurement.

Start this on, just a couple of threads here, okay. Now I am going to do the same thing for this one, just grabbing the first thread is the hardest part usually. Now that I have both those started, I'm going to try to screw this on. Okay. So that looks pretty decent. At this point, what I want to do is make sure that I have the inner tie rod end lined up with the new inner tie rod end. That looks good, and I am going to make sure that this is aiming up in the same direction as the other one. Just like that.

And the next thing that we want to do is get these bolts so they are lined up just like that. So you can see where the open area is, that is exactly where you want the bolt to be when you crimp this down. That's how it is going to hold the threads the best. Just snug this up, and we're not going to completely tighten this up yet because, of course, we're still going to have to give it a little twist when we get in the vehicle. I just want to kind of make it so it can't flop around on me. That's pretty decent. Just snug, time to get that started in there, it's important to pay attention to your inner tie rod end which has this little blank area of the shanked end, then you have the outer tie rod end that has the threaded area pretty much the whole way. Started. Start in the outer as well, let's go ahead and bottom these out. Let's torque both these nuts to 40 foot-pounds.

So now you are going to look for your cotter pin hole. And that should be a hole that goes through the stud. It needs to line up with the castle nut here. I'm going to take one of my cotter pins and just feel around, that feels like it is almost about to go through. Something that's important to remember is if the cotter pin does not go through, or it is not lined up, you don't want to loosen it so you can put the cotter pin through. You just want to tighten to the point that you can get the cotter pin locked in. Do the same to the other one, that one I can see that it is not lined up. Just going to give it a teeny bit more. Put the cotter pin through, of course, lock it down.

The next thing you want to do is make sure that your tie rods are straight so when you're looking at 'em, you want the stud to look like it's coming straight out. If it isn't, just go ahead and give it a little twist, and then double-check the other side to make sure that that one is good. If for some reason when you have one straight and the other one is turned completely like that, that's going to cause premature wear of the tie rod ends. Make sure they are both straight, and then you can torque these down to 14 foot-pounds. We're just going to double-check the tie rods now that those are snug. That looks straight, this looks straight, perfect. Let's get the wheel on, and get it to the alignment shop.

Time to get the wheel up on here. Start on one of those lug nuts. Now we're just going to start on all the lug nuts, we'll bottom them out and then we'll torque them to 120 foot-pounds. Torque these to 120 foot-pounds. That's torqued. We'll get our cover on here, awesome. And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side. The next thing you would want to do is go ahead and get yourself an alignment.

Safely raise and support your vehicle on the frame so your suspension can hang. Now that we've safely raised the vehicle, let's remove this by using a small pry bar right in this little slot.

Now you can see your 22-millimeter lug nuts; remove those.

And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side. Let's get this little plastic cover out of here. To get out the sway bar links, more than likely, you're gonna have to drop your sway bar. To do that, I would spray right inside this hole right here, try to spray the top area of that bolt, and then from the other side, spray this side as well. While you're at it, why don't you do the other side of the vehicle at the same time?
To get this one out, obviously, it's going to be a little bit difficult. You have minimal room here. Go and try to use some sort of pivoting extension or whatever you might have to get up in there. You could also use a 10-millimeter wrench if you have all day.

Let's do the same to the other side. I'm just gonna use a swivel socket to come through this hole. I want to try to find the bolt under there. I'm gonna hold that and then I'm gonna remove the nut on the top.

Okay, so that one broke. So now we're just gonna get the bar off of here. We can move this, try to get this separated real quick.
So now we have the sheath. This is a metal sheath that goes over this metal part of the bolt. Odds are that's gonna be completely rotted together. The best thing to do here would be to cut it. If you were to look right down along here, you can see exactly what I'm talking about. They left plenty of room for moisture to get in there. Let's carefully heat up the area. You obviously want to be careful for any rubber such as your axle boot, or even your ABS wire.

Now we have that nice and warm, let's go ahead and hit it was some penetrant spray. Let's clear the area, let that dissipate for a minute.

Let's get the rest of this off of there.
It doesn't look like the bushing wants to be coming out at the same time here. Get this out here, get that out of there.

Now when you're replacing the sway bar links or just the bushings, you want to obviously do those as a pair and when they're apart is the best time to do it. So now when we're getting ready to put this on, it's important to make sure you have the smaller bushing on the bottom side, that's going to make it much easier to get up through the hole in the bottom of the control arm.

Get that and the bushing right up in there. Now we're gonna go with the other bushing that has the washer on it like that. Slide it down, get your shank, slide that on there, you've got your other washer, a little thing on there. Slide that like that. This is gonna go through the bar. Now we'll grab our bushing with the washer, slide that right on there and get our locking nut, make sure you put that on as well, obviously.

Now we're gonna do the same to the other side and then we'll jump into putting back on the bushings. Now we're gonna take our 13-millimeter wrench, come through the bottom of that control arm right through the hole and try to hold the bolt. And we'll come up here with our socket and we're gonna snug this up and pay attention to the bushings for how much they try to squish down.

I'm just going to analyze these bushings real quick. What you want to look for is to make sure that they're actually touching up against the bar. They have no room for movement, and you also want to make sure that they're not necessarily squished down like a pancake. If you've done that, you're probably going to damage the bushing. All you want it to be is enough so it touches here, here, here, and then if you could see in there, of course it's touching as well. We'll do the same to the other side. Let's start all of our bolts in here that hold the sway bar bushings in.

We're gonna snug these right up. All right, make sure those are nice and tight and then do the same to the other side of the vehicle.

Time to get the wheel up on here. Start on one of those lug nuts. Now we're just gonna start on all the lug nuts. We'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to 120 foot-pounds.Torque these to 120 foot-pounds. It's torqued. We'll get our cover on here. Awesome. And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side.

Safely raise and support your vehicle on the frame so your suspension can hang. Now that we've safely raised the vehicle, let's remove this by using a small pry bar right in this little slot. Now you can see your 22-millimeter lug nuts, remove those. Now, with the wheels off, we have a clear view of where our upper ball joint nut is right here above the axle, go ahead and get that cotter pin out of there. It might not want to necessarily come out, you might have to cut it and then punch it through and try to grab on to it. Ooh. So, I sprayed that down again. Now, I'm gonna use my wrench. I'm gonna try to get this off of here. That right off of there. Now, we're gonna get the ABS wire off of the upper control arm. There's a bolt that comes through from the bottom to the top, hold the bottom, take off the top nut. Let's get this off of here.

Now we're gonna carefully push back the caliper piston. If you look right here, that's the piston. We want that to go all the way back as far as it can go. Some people would choose to open up their bleeder screw. If yours is in poor condition like ours is, it's probably going to break off. In which case, just push it back nice and slow. Now, we have a steel piston here, it's not ceramic. So, it's okay to go ahead and try to pry up against it. You can test it with a magnet. If the magnet holds, you know it's steel. Let's use a three-eighths Allen socket and remove these slider pins. Let's grab the caliper off of here and set that aside. Let's go ahead and get this rotor off of here.

Now that we have the caliper hanging, not from the flex hose, we have it hanging from a nice cord here, that way there it's not putting any pressure on that flex hose, we're gonna go ahead and take the upper ball joint nut, we're gonna put it on just a couple threads here. The reason for starting this on a couple threads is because the next thing we're gonna do is take a pickle fork and we're gonna try to separate these two. Once it separates, we wanna make sure that the knuckle doesn't come flying down and potentially rip the axle apart. Take your pickle fork and your little hammer, separate the two.

Now that we've got this separated, let's go ahead and take the nut off. Just be careful as you take it off because this is going to swing down and you don't wanna separate this area of the axle. There we are. Carefully let's bring this down. The next thing we're gonna do, you can either remove this by removing all these push clips or just flip it up. Once you've done that, you can see the nut that we're gonna remove. And on the other side is where the bolt is gonna come through. I'm gonna hold that bolt with a 21-millimeter. Now, we're gonna remove this nut using a 21-millimeter as well. You can see it's starting to come out, and you can also see this right here. You wanna make sure that you don't lose those. If you drop one, just go ahead and grab it. It should just slide up the bolt just like that. We're gonna use a punch, we'll push this out the rest of the way. And then we're gonna do the same to the other side.

We just wanna remember that this was facing down. Let's do the same to this one. As you can tell, you can roll this up so you have a better view. That's always nice. Here it is, friends. So, now we're gonna take our two mounting bolts here. I like to use a little bit of grease. You could also use some copper Never-Seez. You do you, boo-boo. Go right along this shanked area. That's gonna help make sure these come out nice and easy down the line.

Now it's time to put in the upper control arm. It's important to make sure that your control arm matches up with the one you took out because if you have the one for the other side of the vehicle, it's gonna cause a big issue. Another good way to tell if you're not sure because the curves are about the same, you could just look at where the bolt hole is missing. If you have the one for the other side, the bolt hole is gonna be missing over here. This looks great. Let's install.

Here we are. Just gonna leave this sitting for a second. Grab my bolt. I remember it came through from the inside through, and that this was facing down. It's nice and lubricated, so that's good. Getting all over my hands. That one is through. Let's do the same to the other side, and then we'll continue on. Let's get these on there. Put it on there. If you wanna use a little thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative, but these nuts should be locking nuts.

Now, before we tighten them down, it's important to make sure that you don't have your control arm hanging down like this. Of course, it's gonna put strain on the bushings. Once you go ahead and put this on the ground, it's gonna start stretching them. So, you wanna make sure you have it at approximately ground level. If you have the vehicle in the ground, this would be about where the vehicle is sitting. So, that looks good. I'm gonna find a way to hold this like this, and then we'll go ahead and continue. Now that I shim this with a nice piece of wood, I have it so this is approximately level with the ground. That's gonna be great. We're gonna go ahead and hold on to the bolt side and tighten up the nut side. I'm just gonna snug it and then we're gonna torque it to manufacturer's specifications. Let's go ahead and torque these upper bolts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued.

Next, we're gonna take a nice, big pry bar. We're gonna come right across the top of the control arm underneath the frame. We're gonna grab our nut and have that ready. Now, let's tighten this up. The torque spec for it should be 74 foot-pounds. Something to keep in mind is it might be a little difficult to torque where you have the axle in the way. So, make it nice and tight. Once you're sure you've got it as tight as possible with the wrench, of course, I would try to make sure that you line up the castle nut slot with the hole that goes through the ball joint, and then go ahead and put in your cotter pin. Once you have the cotter pin through, make sure that you peen it over, that way there it'll stay locked. Beautiful. Let's take our grease fitting, start it in here. Make sure you snug it up. Perfect. Let's move along to this right here. You wanna make sure that you have your ABS cable secured. You don't want it to be rubbing against the rotor if it can move around.

So, now we're gonna take a bolt and the nut that came with the kit, put it through. Start the nut on the bottom there. The nut is a 12-millimeter and the top is a 13. We're gonna grab these little clips. They should slide right over the control arm and then they're gonna hold your ABS wire nice and secure. Just slide that one up quite a bit. Put that wire in. Do the same thing to the other one. Perfect. That's gonna protect this from getting damaged. Let's grease up this ball joint. Pay special attention to the boot under there. Make sure that it expands, but it doesn't necessarily keep expanding to the point that it blows open and squirts grease all over the place. Awesome. Let's get that new rotor on there. Make sure you take one of your lug nuts and tighten this down that way they're the rotor can't move around. Get the caliper on. We've got our two bolts. If you need to clean up the threads, now is the time to do it. But these look fine.

Now that they're both started in, we're gonna snug them up and then we'll torque them to manufacturer's specifications. Torque your slider bolts to 38 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get this off of here. We'll get our wheels back on. We're gonna put on all the lug nuts. We're gonna snug them up in a criss-cross manner. Torque these to 120 foot-pounds. It's torqued. We'll get our cover on here. Awesome.

Once you have your vehicle safely raised and supported, we're gonna remove this center cover right here. This will expose those lug nuts. You can see six lug nuts. We're gonna remove all six of them using a 22-millimeter socket. Just gonna take one lug nut, leave it on there, just so the wheel can't fall off on me. Remove the wheel. So, now that we can see everything, we're just gonna hit this with some penetrant right down along here. I like to get up along the top, and right along in here. Obviously, we're gonna be removing the outer tie rod end from the knuckle here, because we're gonna have to remove the knuckle. Anytime you're doing front-end work, you're gonna have to get an alignment. So this is gonna be where your adjustment is for your toe. We need to spray down this whole area. This is gonna help the alignment person down the line. Awesome.

Now I'm just gonna turn the wheel a little bit here, and that's so I can get to this slider pin and this one right here, because we're gonna remove the caliper and hang it safely. Use your 3/8 socket. It's an Allen head. Slide the caliper off of here. And now we're gonna hang it from something, using something as simple as a bungee cord, or a hanger, or whatever you have, just as long as you're not putting any pressure on this rubber flex hose. Just put some penetrant on this area. And then I'm gonna put that nut on there, just a couple threads. That's because next, I'm gonna take my little hammer here, I'm gonna give this a couple bonks. When it comes down, I wanna make sure that nut catches it, and keeps me from potentially getting hurt.

So now, right along here, you're gonna notice there should be some push clips. This one's actually missing, but theoretically, you would probably pull that out of the way. And then you can see right here where your ABS wire is gonna connect in. You need to disconnect that by pulling right here. Slide that up and away. Next, we're gonna get this out of its holding spot, take out this bolt right here, pull all these out, and remove that as well. So now, we're gonna use a little forky tool, or you can even try to stick a screwdriver or pry bar behind here, and we're just gonna try to pull this off of the frame. This is what's holding it in. Remove this mounting bolt. Now let's grab this cable. Carefully pull it off these clips. Now we're gonna remove this nut. The bolt comes through from the bottom, so you're gonna have to hold the bolt head, and then remove this nut. Let's get this rotor off of here.

Next thing we're gonna do is remove this 36-millimeter axle nut. Behind there, there's a little washer. Get that off of there as well. The next thing you wanna do is spray this area. Let that seep in there, and then you're gonna take a punch and your hammer, and go right in the center, and give this a couple bonks until it breaks free. I can see it moving. That means I'm good. You definitely don't wanna use the hammer right on the axle, just in case you damage the threads. Let's just wrap this up so it's not hanging and potentially getting damaged.

The next thing we wanna do is come down to the lower ball joint, and you're gonna see this little cotter pin right here. It's kind of just a locking mechanism. It keeps the nut from turning. Remove it. Now we're gonna remove that nut. Just put that back on there, a few threads. Now it's time to remove the upper ball joint nut. We're gonna do the same thing with that cotter pin, get it out of there, and then remove the nut. So, now we're just gonna turn the knuckle all the way to the right. I'm gonna come through here with my wrench, and see if I can get this nut to break free. Nice. We're gonna remove this one completely. The next thing I'm gonna do is take my hammer and I'm gonna carefully try to bonk right here on the knuckle. Okay, this whole area right here is the knuckle, but I wanna get as close to the ball joint stud as possible so hopefully, it will break free and drop down a little bit. There we are we are. I'm just gonna press through this axle a little bit. Awesome.

So now, for this next part, it's super important to make sure that your ball joint nut is on there a few good threads. You wanna make sure that there's no way that this can fall down or come off on its own, because the next step is actually gonna be one of two things. You can either bonk directly on the knuckle, like we did with the upper, and hope that it vibrates free from the stud right here, or, of course, you can go with a pickle fork. The reason why I didn't use this pickle fork up top was because obviously, I'm not replacing that ball joint. If I use this, it's gonna damage the ball joint, and you have to replace it at that point. Okay. So, that broke free. This is looking great. I'm gonna hold this up. Remove the nut. And now I'll just carefully slide this right off of here. The next thing we're gonna do is take our wrench and hold under here on the nut side, and then we're gonna use the 18-millimeter socket up on top, and we're gonna remove the bolt side. Now I'm just gonna use a piece of scrap that I happened to find laying around, just so I can hold this axle up and out of my way. Remove all these bolts. We'll recycle these. Remove the lower ball joint.

Now it's gonna be time to install our lower ball joint here. It's gonna slide right inside there. If you wanted to use some Never-Seez, you could, but it's not necessarily needed. When you slide it through, you're gonna line up all those holes, and then you can take your bolts and your locking nuts. These are locking nuts. You can tell because they're oblong. Slide it right up and through. We're gonna do the same to all. So now, we're gonna use our wrench. Hold the bolt on the bottom side and we'll snug up these nuts. Just gonna bottom it out. Now we're just gonna make sure these are tight. I like to tighten them to approximately 100 foot-pounds.

Now it's gonna be time to get the knuckle back up on here. Just gonna start it into the bearing. Slide it over the stud on the lower ball joint. I'm gonna lift it up, and then I'm gonna start on the nut for the lower ball joint. That should hold it so it can't fall down. Take a break. Now we're just gonna bottom out this lower ball joint nut. This should wanna slide up, and the axle should slide through the wheel bearing. Now we're gonna go ahead and put this down through, and we're gonna start the upper ball joint nut. Let's put a bar over the top of the control arm and under the frame, so that way there, we can press down on this control arm. Start it right in there. Now I'm gonna take that upper ball joint nut, gonna start it right on that stud. Now we'll use our wrench and we'll tighten it up. So now, we're gonna turn this till it bottoms out. Okay. That's pretty good right there. Let's move back down to the lower ball joint nut here. We're gonna torque that to 94 foot-pounds. Now that's torqued.

The next thing you wanna do is pay attention to the castle nut slots, and you also wanna look at the stud of the ball joint to find where that cotter pin hole is. You line up the slot with the hole, which if you were to come over here, you'd be able to see. If you look right here, you can tell that it's almost lined up. The problem is, is to torque it to where it was supposed to be, it went a little bit past. So, the next thing you have to remember is you definitely don't wanna loosen, because then it will be under torqued. What you actually wanna do is continue tightening until it lines up with the next slot. Little bit more. That looks great. Let's grab our cotter pin and put it through there. Now, these are locking pins. It's super important to make sure you have it bent over completely. That way there, you're 100% sure there's no way this nut can come free. So, the next thing we would do is torque this upper ball joint nut. The torque for it is 74 foot-pounds, but as you can tell, the axle's kind of in the way. I'm just gonna use my wrench. I'm gonna make it nice and tight, and make sure the slot lines up with the hole.

Yeah. That's nice and tight. I'm gonna look for the slot. Okay. Looks like it comes through for me, and it comes through in that direction. Make sure that there's no way that this locking clip cotter pin can come out. Next, we're gonna get this ABS wire off of here. This part's gonna go right under here. Runs up along these. And then, of course, you have the mounting area, and then where it clicks in. Let's make sure we get all that together. Your little push tab. You definitely wanna make sure your ABS wire is secured, because if it's moving around in any way, there's a potential for it to get damaged, and you definitely don't want that.

Now, be careful when you're tightening this, because it will wanna turn, and if it turns too far, you could potentially put a tug on your wires. The wire's not rubbing on anything. This looks good. There we go. Make sure all the push clips are in. This looks great. The next thing you wanna do is make sure that your mating surface between your hub and your rotor is clean. Once it is, go ahead and put that rotor on there. I like to start on one of the lug nuts so the rotor can't move around, potentially fall off. It also helps keep rust from getting in there. Let's get our caliper up on here. Push those sliders. You should feel them kind of wanna latch into where the hole is. We're gonna start them both in before we fully tighten either of them up. Okay. I bottomed out. Tighten a bit more. Let's get the tie rod end in here.

Now we're gonna bottom this out, but don't tighten it too much, because the torque is only 40 foot-pounds. Okay, so we torqued it to 40 foot-pounds. The next thing you wanna look at is the slotted area to the hole, and make sure you line those up in a tightening manner. You definitely don't wanna loosen, once again. Next, you're gonna put your washer on the axle and then, of course, the nut. Let's bottom this out. You don't wanna over-tighten this, because you'll mess up the bearing, so we're just gonna bottom it out, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications.

Okay, so the next thing we need to do is torque this axle nut. But a great way to do that is to grab the wheel, put it back on here. We're gonna put on all the lug nuts, and then we'll get it down so it's touching up against the ground. We'll torque the lug nuts and the axle nut at the same time. Now we're gonna torque the axle nut to 165 foot-pounds. Torqued. Torque your lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's grab that center cover. Make sure you line up the holes with the lug nuts, or else you're gonna know it when you go to bonk it on.

I'm going to use a 22-millimeter socket to take off the lug nuts so we can remove the wheel, then I remove the wheel. So I'm going to use some pliers at the top of the sway bar link right there, and then underneath, I'm gonna use a 14-millimeter socket and just take the link out. A long bolt goes straight through just like that. And take the top off just like that. Now just take a pry bar underneath here. Just raise up on the sway bar, take the link out, all right. So we'll just take the new link apart, and just leave the washer and the bushing on this long bolt. And take the other bushing and the washer, line that up first.

And then this tube goes next. Slide that bolt through, and then another washer and the bushing. Align this up and slide the bushing and the washer. Pry down on the bar. And then it would help if you had someone to help you out to pry this while you're holding this and getting the nuts started. All right, that's good. And then use a 14-millimeter wrench for the nut and a 14-millimeter socket and tighten this down. And then you want to torque this to 89 inch-pounds. Make sure you're on inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. Now, put the tire back and lug nuts. Now we're gonna torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern or a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheel down evenly. And just go around again. Double Check.