Kit Includes: (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (1) Idler Arm (1) Pitman Arm (2) Front Inner Tie Rods (1) Idler Arm Bracket Assembly (1) Steering Stabilizer Damper (2) Front Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Pitman Arm 1995-2000 Chevy Tahoe PART 1
How To Replace Radiator Cooling Fan 1996-2007 Ford Taurus
How To Replace Outer Tie Rod 1992-2000 Chevy Tahoe
How to Replace Idler Arm 1992-2000 Chevy Tahoe
How to Replace Idler Arm Bracket Assembly 1992-2000 Chevy Tahoe
How to Replace Front Steering Stabilizer Damper 1984-2001 Jeep Cherokee
How to Replace Pitman Arm 1992-2000 Chevy Tahoe
How To Replace Inner Tie Rod 1992-2000 Chevy Tahoe
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 1988-2002 GMC Sierra 1500
How To Replace Inner Tie Rod 1992-2000 Chevy Tahoe
How to Replace Idler Arm Idler Arm Mounting Bracket 1988-2002 GMC Sierra 1500
How to Replace Front Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve 1994-2004 Chevy S-10
How to Replace Outer Tie Rod 1988-2000 Chevy CK1500
How To Replace Tie Rod Sleeve 1992-2000 Chevy Tahoe
How to Replace Front Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve 1994-2004 Chevy S-10
How to Replace Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve 1988-2000 Chevy CK1500
How to Replace Inner Tie Rod 1988-2000 Chevy CK1500
How To Replace Tie Rod Sleeve 1992-2000 Chevy Tahoe
Created on:
Tools used
Socket Extensions
Hammer
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
21mm Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Pitman Arm Puller
34mm Socket
Drain Pan
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Assistant
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
11mm Socket
1. Diagnosis
To check to see if you have a bad pitman arm, jack up your car and secure it.
Move your wheel and if there is play in your pitman arm and joint.
2. Remove the skid plate
Unbolt the four 15 mm bolts.
Remove the kid plate and set aside.
3. Prepare the steering box to access the pitman arm
Unclip and move aside the plastic shield.
Spray the two fittings and the bolt with penetrating oil.
Loosen the power steering coupling bolt.
Use a fitting wrench to remove the two fittings and an 11 mm socket and ratchet and extension to remove the bolt.
Have a helper hold the steering wheel for you while you do this to make it easier.
Use a pry bar to move the steering shaft from the steering box.
4. Remove the steering box and pitman arm
Use a 21 mm bolt to remove the bolt mounting the pitman arm.
Use a joint fork and a hammer to separate the joint.
Remove the three bolts securing the steering box and remove the steering box completely to remove the pitman arm.
Put the steering box and pit man arm in an oil pan.
Use an impact wrench or a large breaker bar as well as a pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm from the steering arm.
5. For reinstallation please see part 2
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to install a new Pitman arm on this 1996 Tahoe. It is the same as any 1988 to 1998 Chevy truck. This is a four-wheel drive vehicle. So four wheel drive trucks and also 1992 to 1999 SUVs, four-wheel drives.
You will need the following tools: penetrating oil, a whole host of mm sockets, 18-mm fitting wrench, joint fork and hammer Pitman arm puller and actually not listed here was a 19-mm socket and ratchet or your tire iron to remove your tire. You'll also need a jack and jack stand or lift.
To check and see if you have a bad Pitman arm you can see where this front driver's side tire we're going up and under. Here's your transfer to here and then up right there is the joint of your Pitman arm. This here is your Pitman arm and then this is your steering linkage. Again, here is your Pitman arm. Here's your steering linkage. Now when you move your tires, I'm just grabbing hold of the tires and kind of turning them back and forth when the car is above the ground and you can see there is a lot of play and movement going on around that Pitman arm. That joint is bad.
First, you'll want to remove this skid plate which is four 15-mm bolts. You can see two easy here, and there's one up here and one you cannot really see, but over here. Now we're going to remove the steering box to get to the Pitman arm. Okay. So, this is the driver's side of the engine compartment. There's the power break booster and this right down here is your steering box. It's a little difficult to see. It's where you can see these tubes going in. There is a plastic shield here. It kind of clips around. Now you can see this was clipped up and around here. You just kind of peel that off and pull this plastic shield back and now you're going to want to use some penetrating oil and douse both your fittings, one here and then one a little further up. It's kind of difficult to see.
There are two fittings to douse with penetrating oil and then there's also a bolt. You might be able to barely see there and then you also want to loosen this bolt here and that loosens the coupler from the steering box shaft. The best tool for removing those power steering fittings is a fitting wrench like this, 18 mm. See it down on there? I got it on there and then once you loosen it with a fitting wrench you can usually get an open-end wrench on there to help you navigate it the rest of the way.
Then, make sure you have a catch pan underneath to catch the fluid as it starts leaking out. Now we're going to use an 11-mm socket and ratchet and extension to loosen that bolt. Down in there put the socket and ratchet on there. At this point it might be good to have someone help you just hold the steering wheel so it keeps that from turning at all. Once you remove the bolt then you want to take a large screwdriver or a pry bar and put it down in there and just make sure that you can move the steering shaft away from the steering box and if you watch you can see that the shaft is moving from the steering box pretty easily. When I actually unbolt the steering box I'll be able to pull it right out.
No from underneath here's the front of our transfer case on this four-wheel drive truck and this is our Pitman arm joint right here. So, it's a 21-mm bolt. I'll use an impact wrench. As you can see we removed the tire over here and this is a joint fork. So, we're going to bring it in from the side here and then use a good hammer. Basically we just removed the tire so we can get a good wrap on this fork. Okay. You see that fork just separates that joint. Now we get to the three bolts that hold your steering box on and I just used a little screwdriver kind of bend this fender up a little bit because it was in the way and you can just tap it back down with a hammer when you're done. Then you can easily get a socket and extension on there, and just to show you it can be done with hand tools, again, 21-mm. I'll just do the rest of it with an impact wrench just to be quicker.
Hold on to the box with one hand. If not it's just going to fall out. Move it up and out of the steering gear and pull it forward from the shaft. Here's the bottom of it. Put the steering box here, upside down, once again just so any more fluids just drain out into the pan. Here's where having an impact wrench is going to be really valuable. Then this socket is a 34 mm. If you don't have an impact you can just turn it on all the way and then use a large bar. You may want someone to help hold it. You could bolt your steering box onto a longer piece of wood which would help you to keep it steady, but having an impact wrench is the best way. Now, you're going to want to use your Pitman arm puller. This is really the only way to do this.
Believe it or not I actually forgot to film, or I messed up and I didn't film pulling the Pitman arm off so I'm just going to show you how to use the Pitman arm puller and the tool on to the idler arm. It's the same idea. You would just be doing it on the steering box. Put the tool on like that and then put your wrench on there and then pull and it breaks it right free. Okay, and this ends part one of this video. If you want to see, obviously, reinstalling the Pitman arm go please to part two.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Feel free to call us toll free, 888-844 3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person. Thank you.
Tools used
Flat Blade Screwdriver
8mm Wrench
8mm Socket
Ratchet
1. disconnect the battery
Use your 8 mm socket and ratchet to disconnect the negative battery terminal
2. Remove the radiator cooling fan shroud
Pry up the fuse box and move it out of the way.
Remove the 8 mm bolt securing the fan shroud.
Disconnect the wiring harness from the radiator fan and un-clip the wiring from the back of the shroud.
Remove the fan.
Repeat with the second radiator fan.
3. Install the new radiator fans.
Put the fans down into the engine bay next to the radiator.
Bolt the fans into place.
Reconnect the electrical harnesses and clip them back onto the shroud.
Clip the fuse box back into place.
Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Hi. I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners at 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to consult parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we are going to remove and reinstall the radiator fans in this 2001 Ford Taurus. The fans didn't need repaired in this car. I'm just doing the video to show you how to take them out and put them in. The only tools you'll need are an 8mm socket and ratchet and a flat blade screwdriver. We're going to disconnect the battery here using an 8mm socket. You'll want to use a regular screwdriver. There is two tabs, you'll want to pull out on the tab, and pull up on this fuse box. This will just go up and out of the way a little bit. You'll see there is an 8mm bolt right here. You can see right down there is a plug for your radiator fan. All you're going to do is pry out lightly here and pull that plug off. You want to pull these pins. You can see here's one of the pins out. Pull these pins out of the fan shroud. Okay. We'll kind of speed through that process of unplugging the fan and removing the harnesses from the clips, and then finish out removing the 8mm bolt. Get this up out of the way. Pull this fan up. That just comes out of the bottom. Lift it out.
With this fan I've done the same thing. I already loosened this bolt. I've already unplugged it. I'm just going to take that bolt off. I'm going to pull it out. Then I'm going to slide over to where this other fan came from. It's going to be a fight with all the wiring. Slide it up and out. Slide this on over. It has two feet that have basically a cross pattern on it. If you look down in you can see right there, that cross right there, that's where one of the feets goes. Then that cross right down there is where the other one goes. You put the fans down in, and you kind of just work them back and forth a little bit. You find where they go down in, and then that 8mm bolt lines up. Then tighten up that bolt. Tighten up this 8mm bolt. Reconnect the wiring harnesses for the fan. Make sure everything's routed correctly. Put the fuse block back into place, reconnect the battery, and you should be all set. The second fan, slide it down in, just pull the wiring out the way kind of. The same thing on the feet. This goes down in here into place. Tighten up your 8mm bolt. This back into place now, and then the pins connect them. Put the harnesses back into their places. Connect the battery one more time. You should be all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free at 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Jack Stands
Measuring Tape
Locking Pliers
Socket Driver
Copper Anti-Seize
Wheel Chocks
Straight Cutters
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
Side Cutters
Gloves
Wheel Chocks
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Safety Glasses
Tools used
Side Cutters
Torque Wrench
Gloves
Hammer
Liquid Thread Locker
Safety Glasses
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Complete Metric Wrench Set
Ratchet
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Jack Stands
Liquid Thread Locker
Pickle Fork
Bearing Grease
Pitman Arm Puller
Socket Driver
Paper Towels
Wheel Chocks
Straight Cutters
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Socket Driver
Channel-Lock Pliers
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Straight Cutters
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
13mm Socket
Air Chisel
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
10mm Wrench
10mm Socket
Swivel
13mm Wrench
22mm Socket
Safely raise and support your vehicle on the frame so your suspension can hang. Now that we've safely raised the vehicle, let's remove this by using a small pry bar right in this little slot.
Now you can see your 22-millimeter lug nuts; remove those.
And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side. Let's get this little plastic cover out of here. To get out the sway bar links, more than likely, you're gonna have to drop your sway bar. To do that, I would spray right inside this hole right here, try to spray the top area of that bolt, and then from the other side, spray this side as well. While you're at it, why don't you do the other side of the vehicle at the same time? To get this one out, obviously, it's going to be a little bit difficult. You have minimal room here. Go and try to use some sort of pivoting extension or whatever you might have to get up in there. You could also use a 10-millimeter wrench if you have all day.
Let's do the same to the other side. I'm just gonna use a swivel socket to come through this hole. I want to try to find the bolt under there. I'm gonna hold that and then I'm gonna remove the nut on the top.
Okay, so that one broke. So now we're just gonna get the bar off of here. We can move this, try to get this separated real quick. So now we have the sheath. This is a metal sheath that goes over this metal part of the bolt. Odds are that's gonna be completely rotted together. The best thing to do here would be to cut it. If you were to look right down along here, you can see exactly what I'm talking about. They left plenty of room for moisture to get in there. Let's carefully heat up the area. You obviously want to be careful for any rubber such as your axle boot, or even your ABS wire.
Now we have that nice and warm, let's go ahead and hit it was some penetrant spray. Let's clear the area, let that dissipate for a minute.
Let's get the rest of this off of there. It doesn't look like the bushing wants to be coming out at the same time here. Get this out here, get that out of there.
Now when you're replacing the sway bar links or just the bushings, you want to obviously do those as a pair and when they're apart is the best time to do it. So now when we're getting ready to put this on, it's important to make sure you have the smaller bushing on the bottom side, that's going to make it much easier to get up through the hole in the bottom of the control arm.
Get that and the bushing right up in there. Now we're gonna go with the other bushing that has the washer on it like that. Slide it down, get your shank, slide that on there, you've got your other washer, a little thing on there. Slide that like that. This is gonna go through the bar. Now we'll grab our bushing with the washer, slide that right on there and get our locking nut, make sure you put that on as well, obviously.
Now we're gonna do the same to the other side and then we'll jump into putting back on the bushings. Now we're gonna take our 13-millimeter wrench, come through the bottom of that control arm right through the hole and try to hold the bolt. And we'll come up here with our socket and we're gonna snug this up and pay attention to the bushings for how much they try to squish down.
I'm just going to analyze these bushings real quick. What you want to look for is to make sure that they're actually touching up against the bar. They have no room for movement, and you also want to make sure that they're not necessarily squished down like a pancake. If you've done that, you're probably going to damage the bushing. All you want it to be is enough so it touches here, here, here, and then if you could see in there, of course it's touching as well. We'll do the same to the other side. Let's start all of our bolts in here that hold the sway bar bushings in.
We're gonna snug these right up. All right, make sure those are nice and tight and then do the same to the other side of the vehicle.
Time to get the wheel up on here. Start on one of those lug nuts. Now we're just gonna start on all the lug nuts. We'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to 120 foot-pounds.Torque these to 120 foot-pounds. It's torqued. We'll get our cover on here. Awesome. And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Socket Driver
Channel-Lock Pliers
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Straight Cutters
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
Rust Penetrant
15mm Socket
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Pickle Fork
24mm Wrench
Socket Driver
Wheel Chocks
Straight Cutters
Ratchet
Floor Jack
22mm Socket
Once you've safely raised and supported your vehicle so you can see underneath, you wanna remove this plate. If you take out these two bolts, this should swing down far enough to see right there. Let's use our 15-millimeter socket to remove this plate as well. That way there we'll have some room to get into the front end with our pickle fork. Remove this.
The next thing we're gonna do is remove this nut right here. Use your 22-millimeter socket. Now that we have the nut off right here, we're gonna come right from this side with our pickle fork and we're gonna try to separate this joint right here. If you wanna spray it with some penetrant, it's probably a great idea. There we go.
Okay, so I've got my ratchet with my extension and my 18-millimeter going through the frame holding that bolt side. The next thing I wanna do is remove the nut on the inside area of the frame. Let's do the same to all three mounting bolts. Now let's just push these bolts in a little bit. Obviously, we don't want them to fall out into the frame. If they do, you just use a magnet, you can grab them out. But by pushing them in at least towards the frame. Oh, it fell into the frame like I said it would. Now we can lift this up and out of here.
Now it's gonna be time to get this together. It comes with a locking nut, so you don't necessarily have to use any thread locker. Put this arm so that the stud is facing down, just like this. Take your nut. If you were to look inside there, you can see that there's an Allen head socket, so we'd use the according Allen head. Can hold the center, and then we're gonna turn the nut using a 24-millimeter wrench until it's nice and tight. Okay, bottomed out right there. Give it a couple extra bonks here. That's nice and tight.
So it's a great idea to use a magnet from the outside of the frame and take out at least two of those bolts that are up there. I like to leave just one. That way there it's a couple less things that I have to worry about pushing through as I get this up and lined up. It's much better to just have one up there. I can have a socket with an extension holding it still, and I'll get that one kind of snugged up a little bit, and then I'll start on the others.
I'm gonna get this shaft right inside this arm. That's gonna be the super important part. Okay, now I'm gonna twist this until all the rest of it lines up, right about like that. Now, I'm gonna use my extension from the other side, I got it through already, see if I can turn this in, get it started. There we go. That one's through. I'm gonna start the nut on there real quick. Should come with a washer. If it came with a washer, the washer goes on the bolt, and then, of course, the nut. It's a great idea to use a little bit of thread locker as well. Goes right up on there. Now there's no chance for this bolt to fall out. Let's continue on by doing the same to the other two. So now it's time to snug these up. I've got my 18-millimeter wrench on the bolt end through the frame there, and I'm gonna go ahead and use my 18-millimeter swivel socket to snug these up. That's nice and tight. Do the same to all three. Okay, all three are nice and tight. That looks great. Let's move along to torque this to 40 foot-pounds. All right, let's do the same to all the rest. Let's get this on here. We're just gonna snug it up, and then we're gonna torque it to 40 foot-pounds. That's 40. Now you just wanna make sure that the slots on your castle nut are lined up with the hole that goes through here for the cotter pin. Once it's lined up, you put it through and make sure you lock it down. If it isn't lined up, you need to continue tightening until it is. Let's get that locking cotter pin in here. Slides right through. Like I said, make sure you peen it over that way there there's no way this nut can come loose. All right, let's get the plate up here. Let's go ahead and get our shield up here.
Tools used
Measuring Tape
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Socket Driver
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Copper Anti-Seize
19mm Socket
Straight Cutters
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
Side Cutters
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Copper Anti-Seize
Tools used
Measuring Tape
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Socket Driver
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Copper Anti-Seize
Straight Cutters
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
Measuring Tape
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Socket Driver
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Copper Anti-Seize
19mm Socket
Straight Cutters
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Socket Driver
Jack Stands
Copper Anti-Seize
Straight Cutters
Floor Jack
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Pickle Fork
Locking Pliers
Socket Driver
Copper Anti-Seize
Straight Cutters
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Swivel
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
Measuring Tape
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Socket Driver
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Copper Anti-Seize
Straight Cutters
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
PSA63411
In Stock
Product Reviews
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4.00/ 5.02
2 reviews
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Decent for the money
Stephen
February 13, 2019
I purchased this kit a few weeks ago for the second time for my 1996 Chevrolet k1500. The kit arived on time and had everything in the package as described. The only thing I do not like is that they have no grease fittings for lubrication. Also the steering stabilizer is pointless unless you have a 2wd truck. The steering stabilizer will not work for a 1500 4 x 4 truck. The pitman arm and idler arm fit great along with the tie rods with no issues. This kit will get you by temporarily but do not expect Moog quality.
Fast shipping
Zachariah
November 13, 2020
Ordered suspension parts for my old chevy. They fit exactly like they were supposed to, and fast shipping
Customer Q&A
?Does this fit the 8 lug applicationsDecember 25, 2019
Jordan S
10
Hello,
This kit is listed for the 1500 and 2500 4WD models only. If your 2500 has 8 lug wheels these will be correct. Thanks!
December 26, 2019
Adam G
10
Does this kit work with 8 lug wheels?
December 30, 2020
Danny P
Does this kit fit the K2500 8600 gvw (cast lower control arms)?February 3, 2022
Chris C
10
Can you provide us with the full year, make and model?
February 3, 2022
T I
10
Works great everything was great quality and half the price of your local parts store!
February 3, 2022
C O
Customer service
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