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Product Features
TRQ brake pads are manufactured using premium raw materials and design standards to restore original performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ’s combination of materials and design ensures a low dust and low noise braking experience. TRQ recommends replacing your brake rotors when you replace your brake pads to ensure even wear of components and improved braking comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the brake pads on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. The items you'll need for this include new brake pads from 1AAuto.com, a 22mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a T55 Torx bit, a large C-clamp, a torque wrench, jack and jack stands, and brake grease.
You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools, then you can do it while it's in the air, and then just remove the wheel. Check your rotors. If there's any deep grooves or rust you'll want to replace the rotors as well. You can also check your pad life. You can see ours are actually in good shape, but we're going to show you how to replace them anyways.
There's two T55 Torx bolts that you need to remove. We'll fast forward as we use a T55 Torx bit and a ratchet to remove those. Then, using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in. This is going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Just remove the C-clamp and lift your caliper up and off and set it aside. Using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad. Sometimes the brake pads can be stuck in there. Use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to pry it free. Apply brake grease to the tabs on either side of your brake pads.
Push your new brake pads into place and use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Using an old brake pad, just put it onto the caliper pistons and then tighten it in with your C-clamp, and this will just push those pistons in the rest of the way. Grease up your caliper bolts, put the caliper back into place, and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast forward as Don tightens those up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds. Now, replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Now, torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hub cap and tighten up those caps. After doing work on your brakes, you'll want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then try a stop test from five miles per hour and ten miles per hour, then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Tools used
All right. So one of the first things you need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. Once you've done that, you're going to remove all six of your lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now, the next thing that we would want to do is take a look at our caliper right here. Look all around it to make sure you don't see any moisture coming out. If you see moisture coming out of it, more than likely it's got a fluid leak. Assuming it looks like it's in good condition, we're going to go ahead and push back the piston a little bit. Grab your small pry bar. Come right in between the caliper and up against the pad if you can, or even the rotor. And then we're just going to carefully slowly push this back.
Once your caliper is off, take a good look. Make sure you don't see any moisture coming around these boots right here. If you see any moisture, you have a brake leak, you need to replace your caliper. Now we can grab onto those pads. We'll take them right off of here and just take a nice look. This one has plenty of meat all the way around. It's not damaged in any way. If anything, I could use a little bit of parts cleaner, but that's about as much as I would go. Let's take a look at this one. That looks perfect as well. If they were worn at an angle or anything like that, there would be an issue that you'd need to diagnose. Let's get this bracket off of here to remove the rotor. Now, before we go ahead and get our new rotor up on, we want to make sure that we clean up the hub area of the bearing that's going to mate against the new rotor. So it's nice and clean. You don't want any raised areas. The next thing you need to do is clean up the rotor braking surface. Let's use some copper never seize right here on the hub.
Let's get the rotor back up on here. Now we're going to use one lug nut, screw it all the way on so it holds the rotor from moving around. The next thing we're going to need to do is push back the brake caliper. To do that, you can either open up this bleeder screw right here, and you take a risk, of course, breaking it either going in or out, or you can just go ahead and turn the caliper around. I like to use a pad and then you would just use something to squish this down and force those pistons back down and in. This is a tool that works great for the job. Let's put it in here. As I crank, it's going to spread and it's going to push back those pistons. I'm going to do this nice and slow. You'll notice this is pushing in both pistons at the same time. If you tried to push in one piston at a time, more than likely the other piston is going to want to come out.
So now we just need to take a peak along here and just double-check those boots. Make sure that they're not swollen or pushed out or ripped or torn in any way and there's definitely no leakage. These look great. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to continue on by using a little bit of caliper grease, and I'm going to go right along the mating surfaces, where the caliper is going to touch directly against the brake pad. All right. So we made our way over to the bench with the caliper bracket because it's time to start cleaning it up and preparing it for installation. Let's grab our small pocket screwdriver or pretty much anything you got that you can grab onto this area right there and remove the 10. Do the same to the other side. Next, we're going to move along to cleaning up this area right here, all the areas that you saw that this 10 was riding against. So if you see any rust buildup, make sure you clean it down.
You can use a nice wire brush and try to get in there. Spend some time. You could use your screwdriver, scrape it all up or, of course, you can use a nice sanding grinding wheel and clean it up good. You just want to be careful not to take off too much of the material of the actual bracket. Okay. So we cleaned up those areas great. Both sides of the caliper bracket look decent. Something that I did happen to notice that I want to mention to you is all this extra rot that's built up everywhere, there's a possibility that any of this could flake off and get into your braking systems, such as in between your pad and rotor, which could of course cause an issue. So just take a little punch or chisel or prybar or whatever you got, and just kind of try to get some of this crud off of here. So we got off the majority of the rust off this thing. Now we're going to clean out the inside there. Use one of these bore brushes.
So now that we have this as clean as we can get it, right out here and on the inside where those sliders are going to go, we're going to use some of this moly grease or caliper grease, and I'm going to go along the areas that we just finished sanding down. Now we have our 10s. You'll notice that you have a side that's a little thicker and a thinner side. If you were to look at the bracket, you can see exactly how it needs to go. The thicker side is going to be the side facing the boot. Go and slide it up against there and then lock it in. Do the same to the other side.
Making our way back over to the vehicle, the next things that we need to do is clean up slider bolts here and of course get all the thread locker off of our mounting bolts. Now that I have these cleaned up, let's continue on by installing the caliper. Let's grab our bracket and our two bolts. I like to use a little bit of thread locker on them, but we'll call it your prerogative. Go ahead and slide that in. Start in those bolts, we'll snug them up, and then we're going to torque them to 139 foot-pounds. You're going to notice that one of your pads has two of these brake wear indicators and then the other one's going to have one. The pad that has two goes on the inside.
The outer pad on there. Let's grab the caliper, slide it right down over here. Be careful for these boots. You want to make sure that they're lined up with the hole so the slider can go through. Perfect. At this point, we're going to add some lubricant to the sliders. When we're going to add it, we're going to put it along here all the way up to there, but you don't need to get it up onto the threaded area. Let's go ahead and put those in there. Bottom these out, torque them to 80 foot-pounds. The next thing that I would want to do is pump up the brake and make sure everything's functioning properly. You also pump up the brake for safety so that way there, when you get inside the vehicle, after you've done this job, you will have a brake pedal. Now that we've pumped up the brake, I just want to check that brake fluid real quick. Now let's go ahead and get this off of here and we'll get the wheel on. Now let's go ahead and torque our lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Center cap, go ahead and pop it on there.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the brakes on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. The items you'll need for this include a new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com, an 18mm and 22mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a T55 Torx bit, a large C-clamp, a torque wrench, a wire brush, jack and jack stands, brake cleaner, and brake grease.
You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools, then you can do it while it's in the air, and then just remove the wheel. You want to check for any deep groves in your rotor. You want to check in here for the life of your brake pads and over here for the life of the other one. You can see ours is actually in decent shape.
There's two T55 Torx bolts that you need to remove. We'll fast forward as we use a T55 Torx bit and a ratchet to remove those. Then, using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in. This is going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Just remove the C-clamp and lift your caliper up and off and set it aside. Using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad. Sometimes the brake pads can be stuck in there. Use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to pry it free. You want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket.
You can see we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. On the left is the old rotor and brake pads, on the right are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.
Spray your new rotor with brake cleaner and just wipe it down. Do the same thing to the back. Now, apply brake grease to the tabs on either end of your brake pads. Using your wire brush, just clean up those brake slides on your caliper bracket. Push your rotor back into place and then twist on a lug nut. This will hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back in to place. Replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens both of those up. Torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Push your new brake pads into place. Use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Using an old brake pad, just put it onto the caliper pistons and then tighten it in with your C-clamp. This will just push those pistons in the rest of the way. Grease up your caliper bolts. Out the caliper back into place and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast forward as Don tightens those up. You'll want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Now, replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap and tighten up those caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then try a stop test from five miles per hour and ten miles per hour, and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we are going to be showing you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2002 GMC 2500 HD, same as a Chevy as well, same as 2000 to 2007 both GMC and Chevy 2500 HDs. Tools you will need are 18 and 22mm sockets with your ratchet, and a breaker bar and pipe for more leverage. I also do show you a way to get leverage with an 18mm wrench and an additional wrench to hook to it, large regular screwdriver or small pry bar, a large hammer, small and small stubby regular screwdrivers, also a brake spoon for that part of the video would work, wire brush, bearing grease, small hammer and of course jack and jack stands.
Start out by removing your wheel. Carefully remove the plastic retainers and your center cap and then if you are working with hand tools you want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise it up and secure it, and then remove the lug nuts. I have the benefit of air tools here, so I removed the lug nuts and removed the tire.
So taking a closer look at our brakes, you can see our discs are really deteriorating here, so we are going to replace those, and you can see right in there, that pad, we had a little bit of life left and the other one looks like it's got more, but obviously we are going to replace the pads as well.
So to remove the calipers, here, what we are going to do is we are going to undo this 18mm bolt here and then the same one down here, an 18mm bolt. These are Torx screws, but this top one is very difficult to get to, so what we are going to do is we are going to take the bolts off and remove the whole caliper bracket and everything first. Before you unbolt it, what you can do is take a large screwdriver. I have a breaker bar here. Feed it right into this hole here and pry out and that forces the pistons back into the caliper. There is somewhat limited room here, so I put my 18mm wrench on there, take another wrench which gives me a little extra leverage, and if you have a breaker bar and a socket available then you can usually fit those in there as well. I am just showing you this as an alternative method. I can remove this bolt and it comes right off. The lower one is easier to get to so you can use the ratchet or breaker bar, or anything, or air tools. I will finish getting this out and you can bring the caliper up like that. I am going to fast forward here. Basically once you pull that bracket up, you just have to force the shoes down through the bracket and the biggest thing is there are little wear tabs that will get caught and you just make sure you bend those wear tabs in and the shoes will go down right through the bracket and you can pull the bracket right off.
Now, what we have here is we got our caliper. I got a big C-clamp and one of the old pads, so I am going to work this caliper with the C-clamp and push those pistons back in and I am going to wipe down these slide bolts. They look like they are in nice shape. Clean up the sticky stuff on them. Put on a little bit of new bearing grease. Make sure they're moving well.
Now I move this caliper, it's got a couple little locks to hold it on. You can either break these off or twist them off. They come off easily enough. Now I am just going to coat this with some penetrating oil. I already know my rotor is in tough shape, so I am not going to worry too much about hurting it, when I get them off. It actually came off really easily. You can hit it right back here where your caliper was and I have open space.
You saw my rotor come off really easy, but that is not always going to be the case. Sometimes your emergency brake might be adjusted so that the rotor doesn't come off very easily, so the first thing you might want to do is to have a short screwdriver, so I am talking with the rotor still on, you reach back here and you can see I am pulling that plug out. What you are going to want do is take another screwdriver or a little bit larger, but still a small screwdriver and go through the back side until you feel this wheel and then you are going to turn the wheel star down, which is bringing the screwdriver up, and that will basically loosen your emergency brake so your rotor will come off easier. So I have used some mineral spirits, and I've cleaned off my shoes for my emergency brake and I see that I got some oil on there and that probably means I've got bad axle seal, but this truck got 240,000 miles on it, so I am not that worried about it. I am going to use some anti-seize here. I'm probably never going to have to get this off again, but if I do have to get it off again now I know I can.
The new rotor from 1A Auto is in a lot better shape than the old one. It goes right on. I lightly secure with a couple of lug nuts and now I am going to take my small screwdriver, go in to the backside and tighten up the emergency brake adjuster, basically until I start feeling it give some friction to the wheel. I am going to fast forward through this. You do want to go on this side with the handle of your screwdriver up and then move it down, which moves the wheel up inside the rotor and it is kind of trial and error. Sometimes you can move it one way and you don't tighten it and then move it the other way and you do tighten it. It takes a little longer, but adjust them until you have good friction from the shoes and then make sure you replace that rubber dust plug.
Here is my bracket for my brake shoes and what I am going to do is just take these stainless steel slides with a wire brush on them and clean them all up. Get all this dirt off of them. Here are new pads from 1A Auto. You can see a little bit more life then the old pads that were on there. So we got our caliper with slide bolts cleaned and well-greased. This can be the problem with these trucks if these dry out and get dirt in them or whatever, the calipers actually seize up and your rear brakes do not even work, so if that the case you may want to replace these slide bolts, but you definitely want to get them out, clean them up and if you have to wire brush them and make sure you get a good amount of grease back on them. I've got my shoes right there. What I am going to do is take my bracket and just put a little tiny bit of that penetrating oil and that is not really going to make it slide, it is just to make it easier to get together. Put my brackets down on to the slide bolts, then into the shoes. Use a small hammer and looking at these carefully, make sure that the wear tabs go through correctly and also that your shoes are in the right spot here. It's just out there. Okay, that shoe is on. It may benefit you to take like a screwdriver or pry bar and just kind of, the shoe is getting stuck here on this slide a little bit. Push it into place and then lower it, and it looks like it could go in a little bit, push them into place a little bit and then it goes down on. You might have to shake it around a little bit before it goes in towards that bolt. Do the same down here. Get the lower bolt started and take out my lower bolt a little bit with the air wrench. I cannot really get a torque wrench down here, so I am going to just put my wrench back on here and tighten this up really good and it should be tightened to about 120 foot-pounds. We will use a torque wrench.
I am going to speed it up here as I remove those two lug nuts, then put the wheel on, hand thread my lug nuts at first, then use my air wrench just to tighten them up a little bit. Very important: you want to make sure before you test drive the vehicle you pump the brakes a bunch of times then make sure it stops from like five miles an hour and ten miles an hour before you road test.
Here again, fast forward as I have now put the vehicle on the ground and I am torquing the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds using a crossing pattern and then I actually go around one-by-one afterwards just to check and make sure that they are all torqued, and then put your cap on and hand tighten the plastic retainers.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
All right. So one of the first things you need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. Once you've done that, you're going to remove all six of your lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now, the next thing that we would want to do is take a look at our caliper right here. Look all around it to make sure you don't see any moisture coming out. If you see moisture coming out of it, more than likely it's got a fluid leak. Assuming it looks like it's in good condition, we're going to go ahead and push back the piston a little bit. Grab your small pry bar. Come right in between the caliper and up against the pad if you can, or even the rotor. And then we're just going to carefully slowly push this back.
Once your caliper is off, take a good look. Make sure you don't see any moisture coming around these boots right here. If you see any moisture, you have a brake leak, you need to replace your caliper. Now we can grab onto those pads. We'll take them right off of here and just take a nice look. This one has plenty of meat all the way around. It's not damaged in any way. If anything, I could use a little bit of parts cleaner, but that's about as much as I would go. Let's take a look at this one. That looks perfect as well. If they were worn at an angle or anything like that, there would be an issue that you'd need to diagnose. Let's get this bracket off of here to remove the rotor. Now, before we go ahead and get our new rotor up on, we want to make sure that we clean up the hub area of the bearing that's going to mate against the new rotor. So it's nice and clean. You don't want any raised areas. The next thing you need to do is clean up the rotor braking surface. Let's use some copper never seize right here on the hub.
Let's get the rotor back up on here. Now we're going to use one lug nut, screw it all the way on so it holds the rotor from moving around. The next thing we're going to need to do is push back the brake caliper. To do that, you can either open up this bleeder screw right here, and you take a risk, of course, breaking it either going in or out, or you can just go ahead and turn the caliper around. I like to use a pad and then you would just use something to squish this down and force those pistons back down and in. This is a tool that works great for the job. Let's put it in here. As I crank, it's going to spread and it's going to push back those pistons. I'm going to do this nice and slow. You'll notice this is pushing in both pistons at the same time. If you tried to push in one piston at a time, more than likely the other piston is going to want to come out.
So now we just need to take a peak along here and just double-check those boots. Make sure that they're not swollen or pushed out or ripped or torn in any way and there's definitely no leakage. These look great. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to continue on by using a little bit of caliper grease, and I'm going to go right along the mating surfaces, where the caliper is going to touch directly against the brake pad. All right. So we made our way over to the bench with the caliper bracket because it's time to start cleaning it up and preparing it for installation. Let's grab our small pocket screwdriver or pretty much anything you got that you can grab onto this area right there and remove the 10. Do the same to the other side. Next, we're going to move along to cleaning up this area right here, all the areas that you saw that this 10 was riding against. So if you see any rust buildup, make sure you clean it down.
You can use a nice wire brush and try to get in there. Spend some time. You could use your screwdriver, scrape it all up or, of course, you can use a nice sanding grinding wheel and clean it up good. You just want to be careful not to take off too much of the material of the actual bracket. Okay. So we cleaned up those areas great. Both sides of the caliper bracket look decent. Something that I did happen to notice that I want to mention to you is all this extra rot that's built up everywhere, there's a possibility that any of this could flake off and get into your braking systems, such as in between your pad and rotor, which could of course cause an issue. So just take a little punch or chisel or prybar or whatever you got, and just kind of try to get some of this crud off of here. So we got off the majority of the rust off this thing. Now we're going to clean out the inside there. Use one of these bore brushes.
So now that we have this as clean as we can get it, right out here and on the inside where those sliders are going to go, we're going to use some of this moly grease or caliper grease, and I'm going to go along the areas that we just finished sanding down. Now we have our 10s. You'll notice that you have a side that's a little thicker and a thinner side. If you were to look at the bracket, you can see exactly how it needs to go. The thicker side is going to be the side facing the boot. Go and slide it up against there and then lock it in. Do the same to the other side.
Making our way back over to the vehicle, the next things that we need to do is clean up slider bolts here and of course get all the thread locker off of our mounting bolts. Now that I have these cleaned up, let's continue on by installing the caliper. Let's grab our bracket and our two bolts. I like to use a little bit of thread locker on them, but we'll call it your prerogative. Go ahead and slide that in. Start in those bolts, we'll snug them up, and then we're going to torque them to 139 foot-pounds. You're going to notice that one of your pads has two of these brake wear indicators and then the other one's going to have one. The pad that has two goes on the inside.
The outer pad on there. Let's grab the caliper, slide it right down over here. Be careful for these boots. You want to make sure that they're lined up with the hole so the slider can go through. Perfect. At this point, we're going to add some lubricant to the sliders. When we're going to add it, we're going to put it along here all the way up to there, but you don't need to get it up onto the threaded area. Let's go ahead and put those in there. Bottom these out, torque them to 80 foot-pounds. The next thing that I would want to do is pump up the brake and make sure everything's functioning properly. You also pump up the brake for safety so that way there, when you get inside the vehicle, after you've done this job, you will have a brake pedal. Now that we've pumped up the brake, I just want to check that brake fluid real quick. Now let's go ahead and get this off of here and we'll get the wheel on. Now let's go ahead and torque our lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Center cap, go ahead and pop it on there.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we are going to be showing you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2002 GMC 2500 HD, same as a Chevy as well, same as 2000 to 2007 both GMC and Chevy 2500 HDs. Tools you will need are 18 and 22mm sockets with your ratchet, and a breaker bar and pipe for more leverage. I also do show you a way to get leverage with an 18mm wrench and an additional wrench to hook to it, large regular screwdriver or small pry bar, a large hammer, small and small stubby regular screwdrivers, also a brake spoon for that part of the video would work, wire brush, bearing grease, small hammer and of course jack and jack stands.
Start out by removing your wheel. Carefully remove the plastic retainers and your center cap and then if you are working with hand tools you want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise it up and secure it, and then remove the lug nuts. I have the benefit of air tools here, so I removed the lug nuts and removed the tire.
So taking a closer look at our brakes, you can see our discs are really deteriorating here, so we are going to replace those, and you can see right in there, that pad, we had a little bit of life left and the other one looks like it's got more, but obviously we are going to replace the pads as well.
So to remove the calipers, here, what we are going to do is we are going to undo this 18mm bolt here and then the same one down here, an 18mm bolt. These are Torx screws, but this top one is very difficult to get to, so what we are going to do is we are going to take the bolts off and remove the whole caliper bracket and everything first. Before you unbolt it, what you can do is take a large screwdriver. I have a breaker bar here. Feed it right into this hole here and pry out and that forces the pistons back into the caliper. There is somewhat limited room here, so I put my 18mm wrench on there, take another wrench which gives me a little extra leverage, and if you have a breaker bar and a socket available then you can usually fit those in there as well. I am just showing you this as an alternative method. I can remove this bolt and it comes right off. The lower one is easier to get to so you can use the ratchet or breaker bar, or anything, or air tools. I will finish getting this out and you can bring the caliper up like that. I am going to fast forward here. Basically once you pull that bracket up, you just have to force the shoes down through the bracket and the biggest thing is there are little wear tabs that will get caught and you just make sure you bend those wear tabs in and the shoes will go down right through the bracket and you can pull the bracket right off.
Now, what we have here is we got our caliper. I got a big C-clamp and one of the old pads, so I am going to work this caliper with the C-clamp and push those pistons back in and I am going to wipe down these slide bolts. They look like they are in nice shape. Clean up the sticky stuff on them. Put on a little bit of new bearing grease. Make sure they're moving well.
Now I move this caliper, it's got a couple little locks to hold it on. You can either break these off or twist them off. They come off easily enough. Now I am just going to coat this with some penetrating oil. I already know my rotor is in tough shape, so I am not going to worry too much about hurting it, when I get them off. It actually came off really easily. You can hit it right back here where your caliper was and I have open space.
You saw my rotor come off really easy, but that is not always going to be the case. Sometimes your emergency brake might be adjusted so that the rotor doesn't come off very easily, so the first thing you might want to do is to have a short screwdriver, so I am talking with the rotor still on, you reach back here and you can see I am pulling that plug out. What you are going to want do is take another screwdriver or a little bit larger, but still a small screwdriver and go through the back side until you feel this wheel and then you are going to turn the wheel star down, which is bringing the screwdriver up, and that will basically loosen your emergency brake so your rotor will come off easier. So I have used some mineral spirits, and I've cleaned off my shoes for my emergency brake and I see that I got some oil on there and that probably means I've got bad axle seal, but this truck got 240,000 miles on it, so I am not that worried about it. I am going to use some anti-seize here. I'm probably never going to have to get this off again, but if I do have to get it off again now I know I can.
The new rotor from 1A Auto is in a lot better shape than the old one. It goes right on. I lightly secure with a couple of lug nuts and now I am going to take my small screwdriver, go in to the backside and tighten up the emergency brake adjuster, basically until I start feeling it give some friction to the wheel. I am going to fast forward through this. You do want to go on this side with the handle of your screwdriver up and then move it down, which moves the wheel up inside the rotor and it is kind of trial and error. Sometimes you can move it one way and you don't tighten it and then move it the other way and you do tighten it. It takes a little longer, but adjust them until you have good friction from the shoes and then make sure you replace that rubber dust plug.
Here is my bracket for my brake shoes and what I am going to do is just take these stainless steel slides with a wire brush on them and clean them all up. Get all this dirt off of them. Here are new pads from 1A Auto. You can see a little bit more life then the old pads that were on there. So we got our caliper with slide bolts cleaned and well-greased. This can be the problem with these trucks if these dry out and get dirt in them or whatever, the calipers actually seize up and your rear brakes do not even work, so if that the case you may want to replace these slide bolts, but you definitely want to get them out, clean them up and if you have to wire brush them and make sure you get a good amount of grease back on them. I've got my shoes right there. What I am going to do is take my bracket and just put a little tiny bit of that penetrating oil and that is not really going to make it slide, it is just to make it easier to get together. Put my brackets down on to the slide bolts, then into the shoes. Use a small hammer and looking at these carefully, make sure that the wear tabs go through correctly and also that your shoes are in the right spot here. It's just out there. Okay, that shoe is on. It may benefit you to take like a screwdriver or pry bar and just kind of, the shoe is getting stuck here on this slide a little bit. Push it into place and then lower it, and it looks like it could go in a little bit, push them into place a little bit and then it goes down on. You might have to shake it around a little bit before it goes in towards that bolt. Do the same down here. Get the lower bolt started and take out my lower bolt a little bit with the air wrench. I cannot really get a torque wrench down here, so I am going to just put my wrench back on here and tighten this up really good and it should be tightened to about 120 foot-pounds. We will use a torque wrench.
I am going to speed it up here as I remove those two lug nuts, then put the wheel on, hand thread my lug nuts at first, then use my air wrench just to tighten them up a little bit. Very important: you want to make sure before you test drive the vehicle you pump the brakes a bunch of times then make sure it stops from like five miles an hour and ten miles an hour before you road test.
Here again, fast forward as I have now put the vehicle on the ground and I am torquing the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds using a crossing pattern and then I actually go around one-by-one afterwards just to check and make sure that they are all torqued, and then put your cap on and hand tighten the plastic retainers.
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