Assemblies may include halogen or incandescent test bulbs that should be replaced before installation.
Features and Benefits
Direct Fit - No vehicle or wiring modification necessary
DOT, SAE, and FMVSS Compliant - Meets on-road use regulations
Matching set for a restored look
Item Condition:New
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How to Replace Headlights 2009-10 Nissan Rogue
Created on:
Tools used
Socket Extensions
Flat Blade Screwdriver
T20 Driver
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Needle nose pliers
Trim Tool Set
1. Removing the Bumper
Remove the eight plastic clips from the top of the bumper with a trim tool
Pry the plastic clip from each wheel liner with a trim tool
Remove the 10mm bolt inside each wheel liner
Remove the six plastic pins from the bottom of the bumper with a trim tool
Remove the three T20 Torx bolts from the bottom of the bumper on each side
Disconnect the fog light wiring harnesses if you have fog lights
Pull the bumper forward and off the vehicle
2. Removing the Headlight
Remove the three 10mm bolts from the top of the headlight
Remove the 10mm nut from the bottom of the headlight
Remove the 10mm bolt from the bottom of the headlight
Lift the headlight up and off
Disconnect the headlight electrical connectors
3. Installing the Headlight
Connect the headlight electrical connectors
Line up the headlight using the stud
Install the three 10mm bolts at the top of the headlight
Install the 10mm nut at the bottom of the headlight
Install the 10mm bolt at the bottom of the headlight
4. Installing the Bumper
Lift the bumper into place
Pop in the bumper tabs
Push the eight plastic clips onto the top of the bumper
Insert the 10mm bolt inside each wheel well into the bumper
Push the wheel liners into place
Push the plastic clip into each wheel liner
Install the three T20 screws into each side of the bottom of the bumper
Line up the bumper with the air dam
Insert the six plastic clips into the bottom of the bumper
5. Aiming the Headlights
Make a dot at the center of your low beam light with a dry erase marker
Measure from the ground to the center of the dot
Line up your vehicle with a dark flat surface
Mark the center of each headlight on the aiming surface
Draw a straight line between the two marks
back the vehicle up 25 feet from the aiming surface
Turn the headlights on
Adjust the passenger side aiming screw until the focus of the passenger side light beam is two inches below the line on the aiming surface
Adjust the driver side aiming screw until the focus of the driver side light beam is four inches below the line on the aiming surface
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2009 Nissan Rogue. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's headlights. We're doing the passenger side but the procedure is the same on the driver side. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you need these parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1aauto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.
Remove the eight plastic clips securing the top of the bumper fascia onto the vehicle. You can use a trim tool, needle nose pliers, or a flat blade screwdriver to pop up the center section, like this, and it will grab and pull the entire piece out.
We have one plastic push pin here, just like the one we had on the top that you'll want to pop out the same way. Now you should be able to peel back the inner wheel liner just enough to remove this 10 mm screw. We'll do that using a 10 mm socket and ratchet. We'll then repeat these steps on the opposite side. Remove six more plastic push pins on the bottom of the bumper. On this wind dam, we're missing one here. Remove those the same way with our trim tool.
Remove the three T20 Torx screws. I'm using a Torx screwdriver, you can also use a Torx bit and ratchet. Remove these, and then our vehicle does not have fog lights, but if yours does your best bet is going to be to peel this back, and reach up there to disconnect them. Repeat these steps on the opposite side. Now once everything's detached, you may want the help of a friend to pull the bumper forward and off of its tabs. Don't be afraid to give it a good yank, and place your bumper somewhere safe. The best way to store these is usually like this on a pair of saw horses or a table large enough to support it.it.
Locate and remove the four 10mm bolts securing your headlight. The one under the bumper is actually a 10mm nut. We'll remove all of these with a 10mm socket and ratchet. There's also a 10mm bolt under the bottom that you'll need to remove by adding an extension. You may need to lift up on the tab at the top and pull out on the bottom of the fender to get it by. You can now remove your headlight and disconnect all of the connectors on the back.
Here we have our old part that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1aauto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same. They have the same three-bolt mounting locations on the top, same stud on the bottom, and on the very bottom we have the same threaded end where that fifth bolt goes through. The housings themselves and the internals are identical. You can see the biggest difference here is how beat up the old lens is. That's the main reason we're changing our headlights. Our new headlight already comes with new bulbs and sockets already installed. If your old headlights are cloudy, fogged up, broken, or have moisture in them, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit just like your original equipment and fix you up right.
Reconnect your electrical connectors and carefully reinstall the headlight. Remember that top tab hooks in. We also need to pull the bottom edge of the fender away some to get the stud to line up. We can then reinstall our 10mm hardware.
Using the help of your friend, reinstall the bumper. Make sure the top lines up, and you'll want to set the sides in and simply pop them into place. Reinstall the eight plastic trim clips by setting them into the openings and then popping the center section back into place. Reinstall the 10mm bolt into the corner of the bumper at the fender, then set your wheel liner back into place. Don't forget the plastic clip. Repeat these steps on the opposite side.
Reinstall the three T20 Torx screws on the bottom of the bumper fascia on each side. Also reinstall the six plastic clips, securing the air dam to the bottom of the bumper fascia.
Your headlight adjuster screw is located just behind the turn signal and a little bit lower. You can either adjust it with an 8mm socket and ratchet here or on the teeth through this channel with a flat blade screwdriver.
Now the reason you want to check and potentially adjust your headlight aim is because these are sometimes set up for different vehicles. Your suspension may have sagged or sit higher than the vehicle that they were checked on, or they may have just gotten moved around a little bit during shipping. Checking this is a quick and simple procedure to make sure your headlights are aimed and functioning properly.
This is a basic tutorial on how to aim the headlights on your vehicle. Find the axis of your headlights. This is usually indicated with a small dot or the headlight bulb size on the lens. If not, it's the actual center point of your headlight bulb. Transfer this mark to a vertical wall with a preferably dark color that will allow you to back up 25 feet. Pull up and find the center line of your vehicle, as well as the center line of your headlight axis. Mark the wall with the height of the headlights and a straight line going across at that axis height. Back your vehicle up 25 feet from the wall to the front edge of your vehicle's headlights. Turn your headlights on and locate the adjusting screw, usually on the backside of your headlights. You'll want to rotate this until the passenger hotspot or focus of the beam is approximately 2" below the line and the driver side is 4" below the line. We change the heights on each side so you can still get a good beam to the offside of the road on the passenger side and have the driver side low enough to not blind oncoming traffic.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
315-1167L-ACN
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