Kit Includes: (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Front Strut & Spring Assemblies (2) Front Outer Tie Rods
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Upper Strut Mount
Strut Bearing
Coil Spring
Boot & Bumper Kit
Gas-charged Strut
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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How to Replace Front Strut 2003-08 Toyota Matrix
How To Replace Outer Tie Rod 2004-08 Ford F150
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 2003-08 Toyota Matrix
Created on:
Tools used
13mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
Rust Penetrant
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
Liquid Thread Locker
21mm Socket
Socket Driver
Large Locking Pliers
Wheel Chocks
22mm Wrench
Bungee Cord
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Swivel
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Okay, friends, one of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle with the suspension hanging. Once we've done that, we're gonna remove our five 21-millimeter lug nuts. Let's get the wheel off of here. All right, so now that we have the wheel off of here we have a nice clear view of our front strut. Something that I like to mention is you're gonna have to remove your upper sway bar link mounting point here. A lot of times what happens when you try to take this off is it gets damaged in some way, whether it's from trying to grab from the backside and ruining the boot, or even just stripping this out. One way or another, usually what it comes down to is you're gonna have to replace the sway bar link at the same time. For me personally, I'm gonna be replacing the sway bar link at the same time as the strut. That's just how I roll and of course, I do them as a pair with the other side of the vehicle. With that said, if you weren't replacing the sway bar link, what you could try to do is to use an Allen head just like this, put it in the center where the stud is, hold that still and then use your wrench to turn the 17-millimeter nut to relieve the tension, but they usually strip out.
So, I've got my locking pliers holding onto the backside of the stud as tight as I possibly can. Now, I'm gonna turn the 17-millimeter nut and try to relieve it.
Easy peasy. So, this is pretty much what happens when you actually grab onto the backside, it kind of ruined the boot. Now, the next thing we need to do is remove the mounting bolt that holds our flex hose to the strut itself. It's always a great idea to spray down anything you're gonna be removing with a little bit of penetrant. Awesome. Let's take one of our lug nuts, put it right onto the stud, that's gonna help hold the rotor so it can't wobble around. Now, the next thing we need to do is remove our bolts that hold our knuckle to our strut. I'm gonna hold one side with a wrench and remove the other side. Just gonna leave that in there for now, do the same to the other bolt. Now, the next thing we need to do is take something such as a bungee cord or whatever you might happen to have, but we need to apply a little bit of pressure on this, so there's no way that it can come falling down and potentially put a tug on this or even your axle. I'm just gonna take a nice bungee cord, come through in between the subframe and the control arm itself. And then I'll come up and around this and set that right in like that. Now we can go ahead and get our bolts out of here. We'll slowly let this down, try to keep it controlled as much as possible. That looks pretty great just like that. We'll have it stay. Now we need to get under the hood.
Now that we're up underneath the hood, we wanna pay attention to the direction that this plate is in. It's kind of like a little horseshoe and we want it facing towards the front of the vehicle. Also, what I like to mention is let's go ahead and spray down these three mounting nuts right here with some penetrant. And something else to mention is you don't wanna try to loosen this middle knot right here. Just leave it alone. Now, for this portion we're gonna take off these 13-millimeter nuts, you're obviously gonna need a swivel of some sort or even a pivoting extension. Okay, so at this point, we only have one nut left. Something that you wanna think about is that there's gonna be nothing else holding strut to the body of the vehicle. With that said, go ahead and reach down under there, hold on to the strut or hold it up with something else. So that way there there's no way it can potentially hurt you and let's get this off of here. There it is, friends.
Okay, friends. Now it's time to install our brand new quality strut. Something that I wanna mention real quick, is you wanna make sure that you have the mounting point for your flex hose located on the correct side. Once you're sure of it, let's go ahead and get this installed. Now, coming from down underneath the vehicle, we're just gonna come right up and we're gonna try to line up those studs with the holes in the strut tower. There we are. Let's go ahead and start on all of our nuts. I always like to use a little bit of thread locker but we'll call it your prerogative. Now, we're just gonna bottom these out. Don't make them too tight because we're gonna be torquing them but before we can do that, we have to have a couple more steps involved.
I put a little bit of thread locker on my bolts that are gonna be holding the knuckle to the strut. Let's go ahead and get our bungee cord out of the way. Lift this up, now we'll line it up with the holes. These bolts are gonna have to come through from the rear of the vehicle towards the front. Start with whichever one is easiest for you. Start on those nuts. Snug them up. I like to use a little bit of copper never seize where the bolt's gonna be for the flex hose. Let's get the flex hose situated, start in that bolt, and then we'll snug it up. Bring this over, line it up with your hole. Start the nut on there. We'll bottom it out and then we'll torque that to 55 foot-pounds. Torqued. Now we're gonna go ahead and torque these bolts, get our socket on there and, of course, our wrench. Torque these to 166 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get our lug nut off of there, get the wheel up on here, we'll bottom out the lug nuts and then we'll torque them to 76 foot-pounds.
All right, let's torque them in a crisscross manner. Torqued. So, now with the entire weight of the vehicle down on the ground, we're gonna go ahead and torque these to 29 foot-pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
Adjustable Wrench
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Jack Stands
Grease Gun
21mm Socket
Measuring Tape
Bearing Grease
21mm wrench
7mm Socket
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Outer Tie Rod
Turn the wheel by hand
Remove the 21mm nut from the outer tie rod
Thread the 21mm nut on a couple of turns
Hold the tie rod with an adjustable wrench
Loosen the tie rod adjusting nut with an adjustable wrench
Strike the steering knuckle with a hammer
Twist the 21mm nut off the tie rod
Measure the distance from the tie rod boot to the outer tie rod stud
Note that measurement
Twist off the outer tie rod.
3. Installing the Tie Rod
Twist on the outer tie rod
Measure the distance from the tie rod boot to the outer tie rod stud
This should be the same as the distance noted in Step 2
Move the adjusting nut as necessary
Push the tie rod into the wheel knuckle
Fasten the 21mm nut onto the tie rod
Tighten the 21mm nut to 111 foot-pounds of torque
Tighten the adjusting nut
Twist the grease fitting into the tie rod
Tighten the grease fitting with a 7mm socket and ratchet
Add grease to the grease fitting with a grease gun
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2005 Ford F150. We show you on the driver side but the passenger side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this is a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com; a 7, 10, and 21mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for leverage; two adjustable wrenches; a tape measure; a hammer; a torque wrench; and jack and jack stands.
Start off by prying off the hub cap. Then loosen up these lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet and a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. Once you get each of them loosened up you can raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way. Now pull the wheel off.
Now turn the wheel and then remove this 21mm nut at the top of your outer tie rod. Then once you remove it, you want to just put it back on just a couple threads. Spray the nut at the end of your outer tie rod with some penetrating fluid, and then, using two adjustable wrenches, just loosen it up. Now hammer the knuckle until the outer tie rod drops down. Now you can remove that nut and just set your outer tie rod off to the side.
Now measure from the boot on your inner tie rod to the center of your outer tie rod, and just remember that distance. Then you can twist your outer tie rod free. We'll fast forward as Mike does that.
On the left is the old outer tie rod. On the right, is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Take your new outer tie rod and twist it into place. We'll fast forward as Mike does that. Now, measure from the boot to the inside of the outer tie rod and make sure it's the same distance. If it is, you're all set. If not, you'll have to move that nut to adjust it.
Now, feed your outer tie rod up through the wheel knuckle and replace that nut and tighten it up. If the studs start spinning when you use your 21mm socket just use a 21mm wrench and a 10mm socket to hold the stud in place and tighten it up. Then torque that to 111 foot pounds.
Now, using two adjustable wrenches just tighten that nut back up, and then put your grease fitting into place on the outer tie rod. Then just tighten it up with a 7mm socket and ratchet. Using a grease gun, just top it off with some grease.
Now we'll fast forward as Mike replaces the wheel, and replaces the lug nuts, and tightens them preliminary, and then lowers the vehicle and tightens them the rest of the way. Then torque each of them, in a crossing pattern, to 120 foot pounds. Then just replace your hub cap and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
21mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
Locking Pliers
Pry Bar
17mm Socket
Swivel
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Okay friends, one of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle with the suspension hanging. Once we've done that, we're gonna remove our five 21-millimeter lug nuts. Let's get the wheel off of here. So I've got my locking pliers holding onto the back side of the stud as tight as I possibly can. Now I'm gonna turn the 17-millimeter nut and try to relieve it. Easy-peasy.
Okay. So now I've got the locking pliers holding on to my stud again, we're gonna start taking off the lower nut for the sway bar link. You're gonna notice that it's gonna be very hard to get to this nut though and remove it. So what I like to do is take a nice pry bar, come in over the tie rod end under the sway bar, and then up and over this area right here just to hold the sway bar up so I can get my socket on there. So now I'm gonna use a swivel and extension, put this right onto the nut.
Okay friends, now it's gonna be time to install our brand new front sway bar link. Let's put it over by the vehicle, slide it right through. We can start on the nut. So I've got my tool holding the stud, and I'm gonna use my ratchet wrench. And I'm just gonna go ahead and tighten up that nut.
Now if you can get your torque wrench down here, go ahead and torque that to 55 foot-pounds. Let's get our bar out of there, bring this over, line it up with your hole. Start the nut on there. We'll bottom it out, and then we'll torque that to 55 foot-pounds as well. Torqued. All right, let's torque them in a crisscross manner. Torqued.
PSA85945
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