Replaces
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I am one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we will be replacing the hub on this '98 Pontiac Grand Prix. This hub fits a whole bunch of different GM cars, Buick Century, Regal, Cadillac Deville, Eldorado, Olds Mobile, Chevy Impala, Monte Carlo, Bonneville, Grand Prix, Montana Transport, Chevy Venture, all kinds of different stuff. Here's the list of tools you need for the Grand Prix. Really what you need is basically metric sockets from 13 mm up to 19 mm, plus the large hub nut, which is anywhere from 32 to 35 mm and then the rest of the stuff and plus throw in there some penetrating oil and a hammer and rubber mallet.
If your hub doesn't come apart as easily as the one that did in this video, you may need an axle or a gear puller. If you are working with hand tools, start on the ground. Remove your lug nut covers, and loosen up your lug nuts. I've got the benefit of air tools, so I'm going to raise and secure the car and remove the wheel and tire.
I've removed the wheel and turned the wheels all the way to the right here, so I can access the brake caliper bolts, which is the inside ones, one here and then this one here. Those bolts are 15 mm, I am going to remove them. You don't want the brake hose on the caliper to be stressed, so I just kind of took a wire tie and tied the caliper up here, then remove the brake disc. Be careful not to touch the disc and if you do touch it, just clean it off with some rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits when you put it back together.
There's three bolts that hold the hub on. I'll go in behind here and show them to you. There's one here, one up in the middle there, and then back here next to the, this is the steering tie rod, there is one right there. It'll help probably using a little penetrating oil, right on the opposite side. Now we are going to remove those bolts. They are 13 mm, 1/2 inch is a standard equivalent actually it fits, but I am using 3/8 drive tools, so I going to remove those three bolts and the reason you have to use this size tool, is to get in behind on this top one, you need smaller tools in order to get in there. Then you get a nice big handle to work it.
I'm just going to kind of fast forward through here. As I remove these three bolts and as you can tell, they take quite a bit of force to get going. It will help if you have a large breaker bar and then just swivel the steering back and forth to make it easy to get to the bolts on each side. Now I am going to remove the middle hub nut. I have impact tools, so that makes it really easy. If you don't have impact tools, what you want to do is, before you remove the brake caliper, have somebody hold the brakes and then with hand tools, you can pull that hub nut off. This hub nut is 35 mm, so you'll need a 35 mm socket.
Now you need to get the axle back out. You don't want to use a hammer and whack it hard, but what I'd do is just give it a check. If I see it move a little bit with the hammer, which it does, then I would have you break out the rubber mallet and whack away. Rubber mallet is not going to hurt the insides of your CV joint. Now I got the two lower bolts out and the top one is really loose, so now it is kind of a matter of not being nice. You got to pound on each side of the flange and the hub and slowly work the flange out of the steering knuckle.
I have the hub work loose, now I am just removing the top bolt the rest of the way. I just kind of left it in there in case I hit it hard enough and it just came flying out, just safety. Unplug the harness right here and flip up this with your thumb and pull it off. This is what you would rather not see happen. Basically, the hub has been in there so long, the back part stayed in the steering knuckle and this came apart, so what I am going to have to do is use some driving tools and just try and drive the rest of it out of the steering knuckle.
As you see, it turns out to be not much of a problem. You just beat on it with the punch and hammer and it pops out. Don't worry about damaging it or anything like that. I poked a few holes in it.
You just want to push the clip off of this bracket and the rest of that comes out. Push in on the axle and kind of up a little bit and your connector comes out.
Clean up some of the corrosion on here. I'm just gonna use some penetrating oil just to lubricate it. Now it's ready for the new one to go in. Okay, here's our new hub from 1A Auto and not only is it prettier and shinier, it's all in one piece, as it should be, as opposed to three separate pieces. If you kinda use your imagination here this is all the same, it's gonna bolt up the same and now we are gonna put it in and it's not going to make a big groaning grinding noise.
Okay so that ends this part of this video, part one. Check out our other videos to see the installation of the hub.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front hub on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo. And we show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this include a new front hub from 1AAuto.com, a 13mm, 15mm, 19mm, and 35mm socket and ratchet with an extension, flat blade screwdriver, a hammer, a torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start off by just loosening up these lug nut caps. Now loosen up this 35mm hub nut. And you can see he uses a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. Now, we're just going to use an air tire tool to speed up this process. And you want to remove the hub nut most of the way, just leave it on a few threads, just to have it in place like this. And now you can remove your lug nuts. And if you don't have air-powered tools, you want to loosen these up while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way. If you do have air-powered tools, you can just remove them right here. Now you can just pull your wheel off and remove the hub nut.
Now you just want to pry in on the brake pads, and this will push in the piston on the caliper. And then remove these two 15 mm bolts, and we'll just fast-forward as Mike does this. Now just pull your caliper up and off. You can just set that aside. Then you want to remove these two 15mm bolts right here, and we'll fast-forward as Mike does that. And now you can just pull your caliper bracket free, and then pull your rotor free. And then you want to remove these three 13mm bolts on the back of the hub. The third one's right here. And we'll just fast-forward as Mike removes those.
You will need an extension to get to the bolts, as well as you want to make sure that you don't do any damage to the rubber boot that's on the CV axle. And just hammer on the side of the hub to break it free, it just pulls off.
Then put a bolt through, and take your new hub, push it back into place on the axle, hang the bracket up on that bolt, and then push the hub back in line with that bolt. And once you have the hub lined up, just tighten up that bolt, replace the other two, and then tighten up all 3 of them. And then just torque these three bolts to 65 foot-pounds.
Slide your new rotor into place, and then just replace a lug nut to hold it into place. Now put the bracket back on, and replace those two 15mm bolts and tighten them up. And now torque these two bolts to 85 foot-pounds. And push your brake pads into place. If these slides were seized up earlier when you removed them, just apply some brake grease to them. And then put your caliper back down into place. And then push those slides back into place on the back. And we'll just fast-forward as Mike tightens those up.
Now torque these two slides to 75 foot-pounds. Replace your hub nut preliminarily. And then replace your wheel and each of the lug nuts. And you just want to tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Tighten up the hub nut, and now torque it to 159 foot-pounds. And then torque these lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. And replace your hub cap and tighten up those lug nut caps.
Whenever you do any work on the brakes, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms out, and then do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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