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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I am one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we will be replacing the hub on this '98 Pontiac Grand Prix. This hub fits a whole bunch of different GM cars, Buick Century, Regal, Cadillac Deville, Eldorado, Olds Mobile, Chevy Impala, Monte Carlo, Bonneville, Grand Prix, Montana Transport, Chevy Venture, all kinds of different stuff. Here's the list of tools you need for the Grand Prix. Really what you need is basically metric sockets from 13 mm up to 19 mm, plus the large hub nut, which is anywhere from 32 to 35 mm and then the rest of the stuff and plus throw in there some penetrating oil and a hammer and rubber mallet.
If your hub doesn't come apart as easily as the one that did in this video, you may need an axle or a gear puller. If you are working with hand tools, start on the ground. Remove your lug nut covers, and loosen up your lug nuts. I've got the benefit of air tools, so I'm going to raise and secure the car and remove the wheel and tire.
I've removed the wheel and turned the wheels all the way to the right here, so I can access the brake caliper bolts, which is the inside ones, one here and then this one here. Those bolts are 15 mm, I am going to remove them. You don't want the brake hose on the caliper to be stressed, so I just kind of took a wire tie and tied the caliper up here, then remove the brake disc. Be careful not to touch the disc and if you do touch it, just clean it off with some rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits when you put it back together.
There's three bolts that hold the hub on. I'll go in behind here and show them to you. There's one here, one up in the middle there, and then back here next to the, this is the steering tie rod, there is one right there. It'll help probably using a little penetrating oil, right on the opposite side. Now we are going to remove those bolts. They are 13 mm, 1/2 inch is a standard equivalent actually it fits, but I am using 3/8 drive tools, so I going to remove those three bolts and the reason you have to use this size tool, is to get in behind on this top one, you need smaller tools in order to get in there. Then you get a nice big handle to work it.
I'm just going to kind of fast forward through here. As I remove these three bolts and as you can tell, they take quite a bit of force to get going. It will help if you have a large breaker bar and then just swivel the steering back and forth to make it easy to get to the bolts on each side. Now I am going to remove the middle hub nut. I have impact tools, so that makes it really easy. If you don't have impact tools, what you want to do is, before you remove the brake caliper, have somebody hold the brakes and then with hand tools, you can pull that hub nut off. This hub nut is 35 mm, so you'll need a 35 mm socket.
Now you need to get the axle back out. You don't want to use a hammer and whack it hard, but what I'd do is just give it a check. If I see it move a little bit with the hammer, which it does, then I would have you break out the rubber mallet and whack away. Rubber mallet is not going to hurt the insides of your CV joint. Now I got the two lower bolts out and the top one is really loose, so now it is kind of a matter of not being nice. You got to pound on each side of the flange and the hub and slowly work the flange out of the steering knuckle.
I have the hub work loose, now I am just removing the top bolt the rest of the way. I just kind of left it in there in case I hit it hard enough and it just came flying out, just safety. Unplug the harness right here and flip up this with your thumb and pull it off. This is what you would rather not see happen. Basically, the hub has been in there so long, the back part stayed in the steering knuckle and this came apart, so what I am going to have to do is use some driving tools and just try and drive the rest of it out of the steering knuckle.
As you see, it turns out to be not much of a problem. You just beat on it with the punch and hammer and it pops out. Don't worry about damaging it or anything like that. I poked a few holes in it.
You just want to push the clip off of this bracket and the rest of that comes out. Push in on the axle and kind of up a little bit and your connector comes out.
Clean up some of the corrosion on here. I'm just gonna use some penetrating oil just to lubricate it. Now it's ready for the new one to go in. Okay, here's our new hub from 1A Auto and not only is it prettier and shinier, it's all in one piece, as it should be, as opposed to three separate pieces. If you kinda use your imagination here this is all the same, it's gonna bolt up the same and now we are gonna put it in and it's not going to make a big groaning grinding noise.
Okay so that ends this part of this video, part one. Check out our other videos to see the installation of the hub.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to be showing you rear hub replacement on this 2000 Buick LeSabre. This process is the same for the LeSabre, Park Avenue, Pontiac Bonneville, Oldsmobile Aurora as well as a few other GM vehicles. The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands; and 12, 13, 15 and 19 mm sockets. You'll need ratchets and extensions. You'll need a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage on some of those bolts, a large flat-blade screwdriver, hammer, torque wrench, and a wire brush.
Pull firmly on this hubcap. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to have your vehicle on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts first. Then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. I'll just fast-forward here as I remove the lug nuts and remove the rear wheel. Remove this bolt here. It's a 12 mm bolt. I'll fast-forward here. As you can see, it took a little bit of force, but that bolt should come out pretty easy. Use a 13 mm socket, and remove this bracket right here as well. Now take a good sized screwdriver. You can put it right here and pry out a little bit. That will help reset the piston, help loosen up the caliper. Now you pull this up, and you actually slide your . you want to make sure that your caliper slides okay. Now just pull the pads right out the front, and the back.
If you did want to replace or turn the rotors, you'll want to remove this bolt, and then this bolt down here further. For this, I'm going to use a larger wrench. Actually, I'm even going to take a piece of pipe, put it on my ratchet. It just gives me a little extra leverage and pull back. I'm just going to pull nice and easy so it will start turning. For the bottom one, I've got a 15mm wrench. It's a little bit of tight quarters. I'm actually going to take an 18mm wrench and hook it on here. That's going to give me some extra leverage here. Again, just pull nice and easy so the bolts start to come loose. I'll speed it up here again. Actually, as you can see, after just a couple turns, I'm able to reach up in there and take that bolt out most of the way with just my fingers. We want to get this other bolt off. Then this whole rack assembly. It just flips right up and off. I'll put it up here for now. The rotor is frozen. The best thing is a large hammer. Hit the center of the rotor here. It comes off.
To remove the hub, you probably will first want to unplug your ABS sensor. That's right back here on the back of the hub. Just pull this tab up and unplug it. Then there are four bolts that hold the hub. Actually, you just access them right through one of the holes, and you spin that around to the next one, to the next one et cetera. It looks like we've got a 13mm socket with an extension and my ratchet. With some force they come off. After showing you that you can loosen them and take them off by hand, I then go to the trusty impact wrench and just take them off the easy way. Then once you have all the bolts out, you just want to use a large hammer. Hit it from the front and side. Then hit it on the opposite side, and just keep repeating until you get it loosened up. Take a wire brush, and clean out some of the corrosion inside here.
Here's a new hub from 1A Auto. It's going to go in there just like the original. You want the connector to face the front of the car. It's going to go in there like this. The opening of the backing plate faces the front as well. I just want to place it in there. Put your bolt through and into the hole. Start one bolt in. I'll speed up the film here as I start all four of the bolts in first, and then use my impact wrench again to preliminarily tighten them up. You do want to torque these bolts. Now I'm ready to use the torque wrench, and I'm going to tighten these to 60 foot-pounds. That one didn't want to come off. I'm just going to speed it up as I tighten up the other two. Now back in here, let's make sure we reach our ABS sensor.
Reinstall our disk. Actually, I just like to put a lug nut on here. It just holds everything in place. Bring our bracket down and force it inside here, down into place and start our large 15mm bolt. I'm going to speed things up here as I start the first bolt, and then the other bolt, and then just preliminarily tighten them with my ratchet and wrench. On the bottom, I can't get a torque wrench on here, so what I'm going to do is make it tight with my wrench first. Once I get it tight with the single wrench, then I hook my other wrench on and pull it tight using extra leverage. Now on the top, I use a torque wrench and torque the top bolt to 60 foot pounds.
Then simply pull your caliper up with the back one in. Put the front one on here. Put your caliper down in place. As you're pushing the caliper down, you might need to push this back like that. Then you want to torque this anywhere from 12 to 15 foot pounds.
I'll speed it up here as I remove that lug nut, put the wheel back on. Start all the lug nuts by hand first. Then you want to just preliminarily tighten the lug nuts before you put the car on the ground. Now use a torque wrench and torque your lug nuts to 100 foot pounds. Use a star pattern as the order in which you torque them. Anytime you take the brakes apart, make sure that you pump your pedal a whole bunch of times until it gets firm. Then, do test-stops from 5 and 10 miles an hour. Make sure that brakes are working correctly before you road-test your vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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