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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to be working with our 1998 Toyota Camry. We're going to show you how to remove and replace all of your rear drum brake components, meaning the drum, the shoes, and the hardware that goes along with it. We’re also going to show you how to adjust it to make sure that your brakes are right up top and stop the way they should.
If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more info on this car, as well as many other makes any models. If you want this kit for your vehicle, it's available from 1AAuto.com. You can follow the link down in the description.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 14mm-21mm socket, ratchet, socket extension, needle nose pliers, flat blade screwdriver, breaker bar, torque wrench, brake cleaner, drain bucket, jack and jack stands
Grab onto the hubcap and remove it from the wheel. We're going to use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to remove all five lug nuts. Then raise and support the vehicle, and then finish removing the lugs.
We've put our vehicle on a lift to make it easier to film for you. This job can be easily done with a jack and jack stands.
Remove the wheel and tire.
Remove the drum. You may want to wear a dust mask when working inside of your brake components, as it can become airborne while you're working. Use a pair of needle nose locking pliers to unhook the springs from the brake shoes.
Using a pair of needle nose locking jaw pliers, grab onto the upper spring. Make sure that these are on there nice and tight, because these springs are under quite a bit of tension. Pull out and release the spring from its retainer. You can now use a pair of regular pliers. Support the back of the pin and the back of the plate here. Push down onto this cap and rotate it 90 degrees to remove it and the spring from this retainer pin. You can now remove this brake shoe and the pin from the backing plate.
Now we'll do the same thing to remove this spring retainer from the opposite side. Be careful when removing the shoe, because we have a lot more moving parts here you're going to have to deal with. We use those same needle nosed locking jaw pliers to grab onto the end of our emergency brake cable and work it out of the clip. Remove this snap clip carefully with a flat blade screwdriver. These are spring loaded, so if you snap them out too fast, they'll go flying; and they're very difficult to find.
Work the arm off of that pin. Flip over the brake shoe and remove the arm from the spring, as well as removing the spring from the brake shoe. You can now remove the adjuster. Unhook the spring from the backside and remove this horseshoe clip here. These can be pretty tricky, and there's a few different ways you can remove them. I like to try to spread them with a flat blade screwdriver. Once they're spread open a little bit, sometimes you can just press them off using the edge of the screwdriver. You may have to get a pair of pliers on there. Try and grab the back of the pin and the front of the clip and push it off that way. Can get a little stuck there. Finish prying it off with the screwdriver. We'll remove the arm from our old brake shoe.
Here we have our old brake setup that we removed from the vehicle, and our new kit from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, we have the same drum here. We have the same shoes and the same pin for our e-brake hardware. It comes with new pins and retainer springs, a new spring for our auto adjuster, the lower spring and upper springs for the shoes themselves, as well as a new horseshoe clip to retain all of our e brake hardware in place.
As you can see, our forward shoe is worn out a lot more than our rearward shoe is. This is not uncommon just because of the way drum brakes work. They actually move into the drum at somewhat of an angle, so the brunt of the braking force is taken by the front on this style brake setup. Your rear brakes are generally responsible for less, if not far less, than 50% of the braking in your vehicle, which means them wearing out and becoming soft may not be incredibly noticeable.
Some very common symptoms include the front brakes locking up because your rear brakes are designed to start braking first to keep the vehicle from nosediving under hard braking or braking from high speed. If you brake and your front brakes lock up and the rear seems to not be slowing the vehicle down, or you seem to go into a heavy nosedive, your rear brakes could be worn out or out of adjustment. Or you may notice that your e brake handle doesn't start to get tight until it's very high up, or that the e brake doesn't hold at all. If your rear shoes and drums are worn out, this new kit from 1A Auto is going to go in, direct fit, just like your original equipment, and fix you up right.
Place a catch pan underneath your backing plate, and spray the surface down with brake cleaner. We're also going to spray down our e-brake hardware and our adjuster wheel. These don't have to be perfect, but we do want to remove the majority of the buildup from them to make sure they go in easily and move smoothly.
Reinstall the e-brake actuator arm here. Put on a new horseshoe clip. Make sure you clock it so you can access the open end easily. This will rotate once you get it on, though. We're going to make sure that it's fully seated with a pair of pliers. Turn it so we can get at it. We'll clamp the ends together with our pliers until we close the gap. We'll tighten down our adjuster arm all the way. We'll send our spring back over it. Hook our spring into place at the back. This one's got kind of an odd hook on it, so it can be a little tricky to get in there.
Make sure this pin sits up. That's where we'll install our adjuster arm and the snap ring for our adjuster arm. You may also have to snap that on with a pair of pliers. Flip it over. Reinstall the small spring. Now we're ready to reinstall our shoes into the vehicle.
We'll send our retainer pin in through the back of the dust shield here with the backing plate. We'll install our shoe. Install the first retainer clip upside down, and turn it to keep it locked into place. Insert the new spring and retainer over the pin with the pair of pliers. Rotate it 90 degrees to lock it into place.
Set up our e-brake cable. You'll have to hold back the spring here. Sometimes you can push it against the clip. You may have to carefully pull it back with pliers so we can set our cable back into the retainer. Send this pin through the backing plate. Set the shoe into position. Send the pin through, and we'll put our retaining plate on upside down here. We'll set up our pliers and install our other spring plate the same way. Now we'll hook onto this spring with a pair of needle nosed locking pliers. Make sure that this slot lines up into this channel here, and we hook it into this hole at the very back of the shoe. Be careful when doing this and make sure that your pliers are locked on tight, because these springs do have a good bit of tension on them. We'll hook our lower spring in and again, and we'll grab on nice and tight. Make sure that it's behind this ear. We kind of have to pull this one and rotate it into the slot.
The brake adjuster is located here right below the wheel cylinder. We can access it through this hole in the hub. What this does is as we turn it, it spreads the shoes out. We'll install our brake drum with this hole on the drum over the opening in the hub. Line it up to the wheel. We'll run the adjuster out until the shoes just slightly drag on the inside surface of the drum.
Here, we have a little rubber plug in our brake drum to cover that adjuster wheel and keep dirt, debris, and moisture out of our brakes. We'll just push that out with the old drum with the screwdriver, and then we'll population it into our new drum. You can hear there, we have just a light bit of dragging from our shoes.
We'll reinstall our wheel and tire, test drive to make sure it's all right, and if we have to, we can simply pop this out with a screwdriver from the outside and adjust that wheel up or down as necessary.
Reinstall the wheel and tire. Get all the lug nuts down as tight as you can by hand. Lower the vehicle carefully back onto the wheel and tire. Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Line up the notch in the hubcap over the valve stem. Tap the hubcap back into place.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a pry bar or a large flat bladed screwdriver to remove the hub cap. Just going to slide it under the edge and put that aside. Using a breaker bar and a 21 millimeter socket, and loosen the lug nuts when the car is still on the ground. Raise and support the vehicle. Now you can finish removing the wheel. These lug nuts are pretty loose, so I'm just going to use a socket, take them off. I'm removing the last lug nut, and I'm just going to hold onto the wheel so it doesn't fall off. Take it right off.
Start by removing the two caliper pin bolts: one on the bottom; one on the top. These are 14 millimeter. That one actually broke free without having to use the mallet. If it's tight, you can take a mallet and just tap it and break it free. Just kind of squeeze the caliper a little bit by pulling it out. It should slide right off the pads. Take a bungee cord and just hang it up and out of the way. I'm going to use a small pry bar or you can use a flat bladed screwdriver. You need to pop them away from the brake rotor out of the caliper bracket. Remove the caliper bracket bolts. There's two at the back: one on the top; one on the bottom. They are 14 millimeter. They'll be in there pretty tight. Use a box wrench and a mallet and break them free. When you get the bottom one loose, then work on the top one. As they're broken free, you can switch to a ratcheting wrench. They're pretty loose, so then I remove the bottom one with my fingers, set aside to reuse it.
Now you get the top one out. Pull the bracket out and the bolt out. This car is missing a rubber plug that goes in the rotor here. The rubber plug is so that you can access the parking brake mechanism to release it. Somebody just put some duct tape over it. I'm going to peel it off. Inside here is the mechanism. I'm going to try to pull it off first, though, because sometimes it's loose enough you don't need to release it. Parking brake's not on, it is spinning free. I can spray some rust penetrant around the hub, a little bit in here. Take our dead blow mallet, I'm going to hit around the edge here to try to break it free. Sometimes you'll get lucky, these might come off, but they usually get stuck on the parking brake shoes. You need to release the adjustment. It's very hard to see right now, but through this opening that normally has a rubber plug on it, it had some duct tape on it, we removed it, take a flat bladed screwdriver, we're going to spin it, trying to grab the little tabs on there and spin it up to the little wheel. Make sure I'm going the right way.
You can check. See, I went the wrong way. It locked it, so it's going to actually be spun down. You basically just have to spin that wheel down and keep retracting the parking brake shoes in so that the rotor will come free. When you adjust it, you're going through the rotor and into this hole. Then you're pushing down on it, and that spins the parking brake shoes in to release them.
To cut down on some of the brake dust that's in here, I'm going to take some brake parts cleaner before I remove all the hardware in the shoes and clean it out. To remember how this goes back together, I'm going to use my phone, take a couple pictures of it, underneath. I'm going to take some needle nose pliers and remove these two springs up top that are holding the brake shoes on. That one. You'll pull this adjuster piece out. I'm going to put the spring back on it just the way I found it, so I don't forget how that went together. Now the shoes are just on these little retaining springs and the hardware that's underneath them. These are usually a pretty soft springs. They're kind of keyed, so you can turn them by just kind of compressing them.
Sometimes you have to reach in the back and actually hold, they call it a nail that they're held onto, you can actually hold the back of it so it doesn't get pushed through. Some pliers in here, push it down and attempt to turn it. Whoops. Put those springs aside. The shoe should come off this. Grab this little washer, too. Slide this down. This is the auto-adjuster. Put that aside so I don't lose it. I'm going to repeat the same on this side, remove that little spring and retainer, so you can actually take, this is what they call a nail because it looks like a nail, you can actually take this out and put that aside. Same exact thing. There is a tool for this, but it's actually not a lot of clearance in here to get the special tool in here to push these in, so pliers work pretty well. Lower this all down.
Take the nail out. That's interesting, this one has a little special taper to it, so that's the other side. Now, this is your parking brake cable. Let's try pushing this this way. Got one part of the needle nose on the end of the cable and one on this brake shoe arm. Pop it this way, it almost worked. These brake shoes are in good shape, we're not going to replace them. If you did have to replace them, you would reuse this arm, this is what gets pulled when you push down the parking brake pedal, and it spreads the shoes out inside to lock the brake rotor.
To replace it, you'd spread apart this clip and pop it off this pin. Then you'd swap this over to the new brake shoe, put this clip back on, and squeeze it back together. That's really the only major thing you have to do. Other than that, you just replace the same hardware that we already have, and put it back together in the same way you took it apart. This is what we're going to do now. I need to get the brake cable back into this holder here. I'm going to try some locking pliers. I don't want to crush the spring, so I'm just going to set them so they don't pop off. I can use these now. I need to attach this spring that goes on the back side to this retaining spring. Going to get it into place, so this rounded part of the shoe is going to fit on this pivot point here. This nail or retainer for the brake shoes has this bend in it so it's offset. It comes through here, and then it's offset so that it can go around this and sit in here.
I'm going to install it from the back. Spin it in place. Slide this assembly up, trying to get it to hold the part from the back. Nail, just slide this little cup in there. Take our retaining springs, put that over the little retaining part. Try to line up the slot on the top of the pin to that wide opening, and then you turn it to lock it. You may be able to use the opening in the hub here to help go through and set up the retaining spring. You just want to make sure that this is pushed in and turned so that it's locked in place. On the inside of the opposite brake shoe is the same type of little hook part. I'm going to hook the spring onto the inside of that one, and then hook it onto the inside of this one. Put the shoe into place, and attach the retaining spring and nail. Take these pliers, get that one hooked in place.
This is the adjuster that, when it turns out, pushes the shoes out, so you adjust the tension on the shoes. They also automatically adjust as they wear. This spins nice and freely so we don't need to clean it up, but we need to install it in place before I get too far. It sits right in here, and it's going to sit, I'm going to pull this shoe up, and it's going to sit just like that. To put the other side, nail goes in through the back. You can see it better on this side. Make sure that this little retaining tab goes into this little hole over here. Put that into place. Reinstall the spring and the seat, just like the other side. This plate here with the spring, put the spring back on it. It slides into the parking brake arm and shoe. Separate this one a little bit apart, just get it lined up because it fits together like that.
These springs have a hook. The hook is going to go around this portion here. Then this end here is going to slide into the opening to the bottom of the brake shoe right here. With that in place, grab them with pliers, pull them down and over the pin. We'll just make sure that that shoe fits in that slot and presses that spring, because these two shoes should be resting on this pivot point here. Just making sure everything's connected so all of our parking brake hardware is now in the correct place.
Install the rotor backwards. Take brake parts cleaner and clean off the oil that comes on these so they don't rust while they're shipped. Flip it over. Make sure you install it in a way that this hole lines up with one of the openings here so you can adjust the parking brake. Instead of taking our caliper off of our bungee cord, I'm going to take one of the old brake pads. Take a C-clamp, and now what I'm going to do is gently compress the caliper, push the piston into the body, and that way when we put our new pads in, it'll slide right together. Just going to rest the caliper like that. Take the brake parts cleaner, and clean it off.
Install our caliper bracket. Get the top one caught first—it makes it a little bit easier. Then install the bottom one. It’s a little easier because it just hangs on the top one. Reach in behind here, get that bracket lined up. Use the 14 millimeter ratcheting wrench to snug these up. Install our new pads, just take some brake parts cleaner, make sure they're nice and clean. Brake caliper grease on the ears of them. Inside and outside pad is the same, I'm going to start with the inside pad. Place it in the bottom clip, push it up into the top clip, snaps into place. Do the same for the outside one. We're just kind of following the curb of the pad, too, they're contoured, so the wider part is going to match up with the wider outside part of the rotor, and the inside part. Just push them down into the clips. Squeeze them together.
Place the caliper back in place, and reinstall the bolts. Tighten these up. They'll get tight and I will stop. I torqued the caliper bolts, 46 foot-pounds. You need to adjust the drag on the parking brake. You can turn this so you can see the adjuster. Then you can put your screwdriver in and just catch the gears in the wheel just right, so now that's how you'd adjust it so that it's actually really tight, it's holding the brake rotor. Now you know where the limit is. You want to back it off a little bit by turning it back down. Eventually, if you touch the parking brake pedal it would self-adjust out, but this way it just gets it closer right away.
Now I'm going to reach in and turn it down a little bit. What it's dragging on right now is just the brake pads, but that should spin freely enough. Of course, when you hit the parking brake pedal, it should come out and lock the rear wheels. Important to note, these lug nuts have a taper. Taper meets the wheel, matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them the flat side like this, that is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel. It helps locate the wheel on the lug nut stud.
I'm just using the socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground, and torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds. I'm going in a cross pattern. We'll reinstall the hub cap. Going to line up the opening for the valve stem with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
Before we start the car, just going to gently press the brake pedal down, not all the way to the floor, maybe about a quarter of the way, and just pump it. This will bring the brake caliper piston out to meet the pads because we compressed it, and you'll start to feel it get more solid as it pumps up.
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