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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
With the vehicle on the ground I'm going to use a 19 millimeter socket and a breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts. With the lug nuts loosened I'm now going to raise and support the vehicle. With the lug nuts loosened I should be able to use just the socket and finish removing them and I can take the wheel off. With the last lug nut removed I can take the wheel off.
Before I remove the caliper from the bracket, I'm going to try to squeeze it in first. Relieve some of the pressure on the piston. Get it to slide back into the caliper. This way when I go to remove it it'll slide right off. The caliper is held on with two bolts. One on the bottom and one on the top. They go in the side pins. This caliper doesn't have any stop to keep the slide pins from spinning when we go to remove it so we'll use a 19 millimeter wrench to kind of hold it. Use a 12 millimeter wrench to loosen it. Now I can just thread those out by hand. With the bolts out, I can slide the caliper off the pads and out of the bracket. I'll take the caliper and I want to hang it by the rubber hose using a bungee cord. Just wrap it through the strut. Give a couple twists here. Slide the pads out. Kind of wiggle them out of place.
The caliper bracket is held on with two bolts. There's a lower one and an upper one here. Let's start with the lower one, 17 millimeter. It's on there pretty tight, so I'm going to use the dead blow on the end of the wrench. Work on the upper one. Use the ratchet and socket just to make this go a little quicker. The other side. Hold onto the bracket as I loosen this upper one. There. Slide that out. The rotor is held to the hub with these two Phillips head screws. I need a big Phillips head screwdriver to remove them. They're in there and they're kind of stuck. I'm just going to have work at it. Spray some rust penetrant. Around here.
We've got an impact driver, which when you hit it, it spins the bit out, so I'm going to use that to help us get these out. I'll leave it loose. Now I'm going to get this one out. If after removing these two screws the rotor is still seized to the hub you can put two bolts in here and push it off. We're lucky this one's pretty loose. It'll slide right off. The brakes we took off the Civic are basically brand new. We're just going to reuse them. We just wanted to show you how to take them off. But 1A Auto does sell the front and rear brake kit for this vehicle. Here's the pad we took off.
Here's a brand new pad from 1A Auto. You can see this one is not really worn down that much. If we measure it it's just under 10 millimeters and when we look at the brand new pad from 1A Auto it's just about 10 millimeters as well. Since these are in good shape we're going to reuse the old ones for now. But if you need brand new brake pads you can get them from 1AAuto.com.
Just put this rotor back on. This would be the same if it was brand new. Kind of put it on backwards first. Take your brake parts cleaner. Just clean it down. Take a rag and wipe off the greasy hand prints. Flip it over. Install it the correct way. Line up these countersunk holes here with the threaded holes in the hub. Push that on. Some brake parts cleaner and clean the outside surface of the brake rotor. You can reuse these screws if you want to. You don't really have to. They just kind of hold the rotor in place while you're installing the caliper and caliper bracket. Clean our caliper hardware. Those are stainless steel clips on either ends. They can be reused. Just take some brake parts cleaner. Spray them down. And a wire brush. Take a rag and wipe them off. Repeat that for the other side. Now's a good time to check these slide pins. Make sure they move freely. That slides in and out real nice. Same for this one. Put the bracket over here. Put the bolts through the knuckle.
Have to move the caliper back around to find the openings. Thread them in by hand. Get that one caught. Work on the top one. Just going to slide these down with a ratchet. I'll come back and torque them afterwards. Just going to clean these pads with some brake parts cleaner before I put them back in. Put a little bit of caliper grease on the ears. I want the wear indicators on the inside. Place it into the clip and push it in place. And I'm going to repeat this for the other pad.
I'll take the brake caliper. Pull out the bungee cord. Get this out of here so I don't forget it. That's okay. This piston's pretty well compressed into the brake caliper. If these brake pads are really worn out this piston could be sitting way far out here and you'd have to take one of the old brake pads before you can install it and use a large C-clamp and you'd actually compress the piston back into the brake caliper. Since we're reusing the same pads and the thickness hasn't changed we don't need to do that. I'm just going to slide this into place. Install the bolts back in the slide pin. Just going to snug these up. Then I'll torque them. I'm going to counter hold the slide pins and then use a torque wrench to torque the slide caliper bolts, slide pin bolts. Torque these to 25 foot pounds. Caliper bracket bolts need to be torqued to 80 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the wheel. Thread the lug nuts on by hand. I'm just going to snug them down. And when I put the car on the ground I will torque them. I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 80 foot pounds. Go in a cross pattern. And the final step, to push the caliper pistons back out to meet the pads I'm going to gently press on the break and pump up the pedal pressure. You'll feel it start to get harder.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
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Hi, I'm Jeremy from 1AAuto. I'm going to help you fix your car today, and the next time you need parts for your car think of 1AAuto.com. Thank you.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on a 2003 Honda Civic. It's pretty much the same for a 2001-2005 Honda Civic. The tools that you'll need for this job include a jack and jack stands, 19mm socket and breaker bar, 12mm wrench, 17mm wrench, Phillips screwdriver, large c-clamp, wire brush, some anti-seize, and a torque wrench.
The first step is to break the lug nuts loose, and you do that by leaving the car on the ground so that the wheel doesn't spin when you lift up on it. Here we go. Now we're going to raise the car up and take the wheel off. Now we're going to pull it off.
The next step is to pull these two screws out of the rotor. Normally they're stuck in there really tight, so I try to use a screwdriver first, and then go on to more drastic measures if need be. These are actually coming out.
The next step is to remove these two 12mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. You can use a ratchet or the style wrench. One trick is to connect the two wrenches together, and then bump them with your fist so you can pull them out. The next thing I like to do is pull the caliper really hard toward me so that it compresses the piston inside the caliper. It makes the caliper loose, making it easier to remove. Remove the caliper.
Now we can take the brake pads out. These ones are in pretty good shape, so we'll probably end up putting these right back in. Then you're going to take off the caliper bracket, which, once again, you can use the same method of linking the wrenches together to break it loose. Now the caliper bracket is off.
Now that we have the caliper bracket off, we can take off the rotor, as you can see.
For reinstall, place the rotor back on the hub. Apply a little anti-seize to the Phillips screws, and put them back in the rotor. Clean up the brake pad slides to make sure that they're not going to make the brake pad bind up and cause uneven brake pad wear. Now we have the caliper bracket that needs to go back on.
Then we can put the bracket right back on after it's nice and clean. We are now ready to put the brake pads in. Normally, they're brand new and you can just slide them in, where this one is used. I'm probably going to put a little anti-seize on this as well. It does exactly what it is called, and it prevents the brake pads from sticking in the slides. You can see the squeaker right here. This is the thing that makes all the noise whenever you need new brake pads. That goes right here on the inside. You're going to need to compress this caliper. The best way to do that is actually with a giant C-clamp. As you can see, as you tighten the C-clamp, it pushes the piston in. Pretty awesome, right? Now it's completely compressed and you can pull the C-clamp out.
Like I said before, put the caliper on. Here's the caliper bolts. Once again, anti-seize. If you live in a dry climate, these things won't be rusty, but in New England, they're always rusty. Voila, your brakes are back together again.
It's now time to put the tire back on. Slide the wheel into place and tighten the lug nuts preliminarily. Lower the vehicle to the ground. The last step is to torque the wheels. I usually a hundred foot-pounds on pretty much all the wheels that I tighten. Basically, grab your torque wrench, always do it in a cross pattern so that the wheel goes on straight. Now the pedal's pumped and the brakes feel good again.
Hopefully this video has helped you out. You can visit us at 1AAuto.com for replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
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