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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Part Details
These replacement ABS (Anti-Lock Brake) Sensors with harnesses are just what you need to get your vehicle's ABS system in good operating condition again!
A bad, corroded, frayed, or malfunctioning ABS sensor can cause an ABS light to illuminate on your instrument panel, and store an ABS diagnostic error code. If your ABS sensor or wiring harness is corroded or damaged it will prevent your ABS sensor, and ABS system from working properly.
Specifications:
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
Returns: Parts with electrical components cannot be returned once installed.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an ABS Sensor on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. It's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2000-2006. We show on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this includes a new ABS Sensor from 1AAuto.com, an 18mm and 22mm socket, a ratchet with a piece of a pipe for extra leverage, a T55 Torx Bit, a 5mm Allen Bit, pliers, a large C-clamp, a torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start off by loosening up these 22mm lug nut covers. We'll fast-forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air-powered tools.
You want to remove these two T55 Torx bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in, and this going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Then, just remove the C-clamp, and lift your caliper up and off. Set it aside.
Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad, and sometimes the pad is going to be stuck in there, you can use a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to pry it free. Now you want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket, and you can see, we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off.
Next, remove this 5mm Allen bolt. Using your flat blade screwdriver, just pry up on the sensor, pull it free, and then push it through the back end plate and out. Using your pliers, just push the tabs on the harness, pull this free, and pry it out of this bracket right here and again right here. You can see the clip on ours breaks, that's fine. Just make sure that you remove the broken part that's left over. Hold the harness free, pry up on the tab, disconnect it, and your ABS Sensor is free. On the left is the old ABS Sensor; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
You don't need the bottom part if you left your other clip up there so you can just pull that free, connect your harness, re-clip the harness, and then push these clips back into the brackets. Then push these tabs back to the slot. Now apply the lubricant to the outside of the sensor. Replace this bracket, feed that back down into place, and then replace that 5mm Allen bolt. I'll fast-forward as Don tightens that up.
Push your rotor back into place, and then twist on the lug nut, and this will just hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back into place, and replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Don does this and tightens both of those out. Now torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Now replace your brake pads and use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Grease up your caliper bolts. Put the caliper back into place, and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast-forward as Don tightens those up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds. Replace your wheel, replace those lug nuts, and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds, and torque this hub nut to 125 foot-pounds. Put the cap back in place and put it back in. Take your hub cap and just tighten up those bolt caps.
After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms out, and then try a stop test from 5 miles per hour and ten miles per hour. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
