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Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
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In this video I'm going to show you how to replace the stabilize links on this 97 expedition, same as many Ford and Lincoln trucks and SUVs. When these go bad, sometimes they break out right and just kind of fall out and then your truck is going to sway back and forth more. Also you may here a clunking when you go over bumps and that clunking actually goes away when you're going over bumps but you're turning, because it's putting some pressure on the Lincoln and not making noise.
Tools you'll need, I put jack and jack stands on here but you can actually accomplish this with the vehicle on the ground. Obviously it's a lot easier to film it with jack and jack stands but you will need 9/16 and 14mm sockets. The 19mm socket will be if you're taking the lug nuts off. Ratchet and extensions. You'll need a hummer and a punch, vise-grip or locking pliers and penetrating oil. Actually those last four things are only if yours is rusted on there like ours was.
Okay, to film it, it's a lot easier to take the wheel off. This is a repair you can do just by turning if you want to replace the right hand one you can turn your wheels all the way to the right and you can probably get in there well enough, remove the stabilizer link without jacking up the vehicle or taking the wheel off. I'm going to loosen the lug nuts here then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the tire.
Next I'm going to remove the stabilizer links. I'm going to spray the top of it with some penetrating oil and let it sit for a while. Okay this stabilizer links are sometimes difficult to get apart. You can use hand tools, they will come apart. I just chose to use a impact wrench just to make it easier. I have a 9/16 socket on the bottom and a 14mm socket on top.
Okay, use a hummer and pound down that bolt then use punch see if you can get it to go down through the sleeve, I end up actually having to use vise-grips and the wrench. Okay what I'm going to do here, I'm going to set up vise-grips on to this shaft, more tighter here. Here I'm going to install the sway bar link. I've already put a new link on the other side and just started the nut on it. The bushing always go towards the middle. We got bushing on the bottom going up to the control arm, bushing above that. My shaft goes on there and then the washer and the bushing. Okay push them down and in, and make sure that bushing is centered in there. Stabilizer bar. Now bushing and washer, and then my bolt or nut.
Okay, now you want to use the jack put pressure on the suspension and then tighten up the stabilizer to 15, to 17 foot pounds. You can put your tire back on and start each lug nut one by one make sure you don't cross-thread them. Tighten them down preliminarily. Put the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
So, when we're going to start this project, we're going to go ahead and loosen the lug nuts on the wheel. We're going to use a breaker bar with a 19 mm socket. Next, we're going to go ahead and raise and support your vehicle. You can use a jack and jack stands. In this case, here, we're using a lift to make it a little bit easier. We just go ahead and remove the lug nuts here, just by using that socket, because we already loosened those. With the lug nuts removed, we can now go ahead and remove the wheel and tire.
Right about here, we have your sway bar or anti-sway bar end link, here. Here's your sway bar. In most cases, here, you'll find these sway bar end links broken. What we're going to do is we're going to show you how to go ahead and remove this and do an installation for you. This component, here, can actually be removed and replaced with the tire still on the vehicle. We just happened to have the vehicle up in the air with the tire off so it just made it a little bit easier. This is something you can do with the tire still on there.
All right, so we're going to use a 14 mm on the head of the bolt down below, and we're going to use a 14 mm on the top. It may vary on your application. I'm going to go ahead and remove this nut here. Now, this does come off in stages. You have your main washer. You have your rubber of poly bushing. Then, obviously, you have the sway bar link here, or the sway bar itself, anti-sway bar. I'm going to try and just tap this down. This bolt will slide out through the bottom. What we don't want to lose is all these components in the middle here. We're going to show you what those do. Before we pull this out, we're going to go ahead and start pulling apart the internal pieces here.
Here is your complete anti-sway bar end link. You can actually see it just starts off with just a basic bolt. Then you have your metal collar here. You want to make sure that that slides on so that the dish part is facing upward. Then you're going to take your component here. Your bushing could be a poly or rubber bushing. Slide that down. Now, this is going to go up inside the control arm. What you want to do is sleeve the components together. What's going to happen next is your next bushing is going to go on, followed by your next dish. Now this is going to go the opposite way, so it's going to compress and squeeze against its matching component. This here is simply just a sleeve. It's not threaded. Slips right down. Your next component is that there. Slide this on, and once again we're going to sleeve the other component, which is your sway bar, your anti-sway bar. That'll slip on followed by that, and followed by the nut. That there is your complete unit. Our vehicle doesn't actually need replacement, but this is just your R & R process.
Here's the reinstallation. Going to slide this up through the bottom, and go ahead and slide your bushing down, followed by that spacer and that washer. We're going to now go ahead and put the sleeve on. It's going to be the next bushing. I'm sorry, it's actually your spacer, here, first, then the bushing. Now, you have the slide this up underneath like so. You want to push that up, push that bolt up through the middle. Now, you can see the base bolt is in.
You have your bushing, collar, sleeve, collar, bushing. The bushing and the collar right there. The last component is the nut. We're going to go ahead and get the threaded on. We're going to go ahead and tighten this up with a 14 mm. As you're tightening this here, you may be wondering, "How tight do I tighten this here?" Well, basically you want to get it so that the rubber bushing expands out to roughly the diameter of the metal washers there.
I'm going to go ahead and reinstall the tire. I'm going to go ahead and reinstall the lug nuts, here. You want to get a few threads caught on all of these, here. These lug nuts are a 19 mm. We're just going to snug these, bottom it out, bottom the wheel out to the rotor. We're going to lower the vehicle down onto its own weight, and then do a final torque. With the vehicle on the ground, we're going to do its final torque of the wheel, which is between 83 and 112 foot pounds. We're going to do it in a star pattern. I'll just double check the first one. She's all set.
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